
Re: FINALLY!!!
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Re: FINALLY!!!
- From: "MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 00:51:53 -0500
The former owner put in about 5 gallons last Fall, to which I put in some
Sea Foam. And then last week I added about 5 gallons of fresh gas..Are you
thinking maybe water giving some problem?...............MO
{Steve Mick}
http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: FINALLY!!!
Steve,
Good news indeed!
You were indefatigable in your search for the problem and it paid off.
Is the fuel fresh or is it months old?
Gary P.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MO ( Steve Mick)" <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 4:46 PM
Subject: FINALLY!!!
WWWHHHOOOOOO---HHHAAAAA I got my 64 Sport Fury(383) to start and run on
it's own. No battery jumper or spritzing in gas in the carb. I did not
have a AH-HA! smokeing gun moment during the whole ordeal. This Fury
had been used as a drag car, and when the former owner decided to sell
it. I think he took off the good ignition and carb and put some things he
had laying around back on it. There were so many things wrong he prolly
got sick of it and then I came along with some cash in hand. Some rare
times it would start when you let off the key switch and then run fairly
well. for a short time. I am somewhat good at diagnosis but it stymied
me! I knew nothing about Nopar electronic ignition or how to trace down
an ignition problem with them. So I went back to a rebuilt points
distributor. No go. I messed around with jumper wires and such that I
can't remember the sequence of what I did. I know I learned what a
balladst resister does and how it works now. I got some wireing diagrams
and started sorting out the jumble of wires. I found that the hot wire to
the ballast was the wrong one. It would shut off the power to it when the
engine was cranking. So I found the wire that remained hot when cranking
the starter. and hooked it to the input side of the ballast he engine
would run with a boost of gas to start it, but after a short while, would
die. I messed with the timeing but had to guess as the engine would not
run long enough to know when it was close. Rebuilt dist did not have
hardly any point gap . Set that, no go. Changed out the old MsSD coil
for one that does not need a external ballast resister. No go. Took off
the 3310 Hlley carb and someone had put the accelerator pump diaphram in
upside down! AAHH-HAA!----No go. Put in new points and condensor, no
go. Had plenty of spark at the wire???? It would start but popped
backfired puked . Has to be the carb. I bought a Holly 3310 carb at a
swap meet that suppossedly been rebuilt and on the shelf for a long time.
I had to transfer some parts from the first Holley It would then start
but still popped and backfired occasionally. So then I thought the plug
gap would have been wider for the elet. ign. so I TOOK OUT THE PLUGS,
CLEANED THEM AND RESET THE GAP. ( caps not intended) Man ! what a PITA
to change those plugs with headers !!! The engine started right up,
might have been a combination of getting the carb soaked up with gas and
the plugs.
At first the engine still popped and puked back when cold, but after a
while when warmes up better, it started running smoother. . I stopped for
the day so didn't get the carb finer tuned.
Question is: Is this cold missfire and puking back from two lean a low
speed fuel mixture? My manual choke is not hooked up. Any other things
that could still be a problem? Thanks for your
input...........................MO
{Steve Mick}
http://stevemick1964dodge.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
----
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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