Re: timing key update
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Re: timing key update



I block the flywheel or ring gear on the torque converter with a wedged shaped 
block of wood then torque the bolts.  If you have help have someone hold a pry 
bar against the teeth to keep it from turning. With the block of wood then when 
you have correct torque you just back the flywheel up and little and out comes 
the block of wood.


----- Original Message ----
From: Roger Pettigrew <dodger7998@xxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sun, January 30, 2011 8:40:35 AM
Subject: Re: timing key update



No,,,,,that is not the correct way,,,,,,,,,, and Yes that is how I  would 
do it,,,,,,,, the pound rating is not for seating or end play adjustment,  it 
is for keeping the pulley from falling off


In a message dated 1/30/2011 10:36:53 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:



Hi all,

An update on changing the timing chain on a  poly 318. Reminder: I was 
having a problem removing the key in the   crank. Thanks for all the 
suggestions. I tried them and never did get the key  out. That sucker is "one" 
with the 

crank! So I tried the tip from club member  Darwin: I used a small pipe 
that was big enough to fit over the crank to push  on the lower timing gear, 
tapped on the gear, adjusting the chain/top gear  accordingly as the assembly 
slid on.

Then I spent some time yesterday  putting the rest of the stuff back on the 
engine. Only one setback: when I put  the timing gear cover on and was 
ready to put on the water pump I noticed in  the parts box the crankshaft oil 
slinger sitting there staring at me. Duh!  It's definitely not better R&R the 
timing chain cover the second time  around! :) Better then than after all 
the other stuff was put back on, though!  

One quick question: the torque for the crankshaft pulley bolt is 135  foot 
pounds. Using a torque wrench spins the engine, so do I just tighten the  
bolt full in until using the ratchet the crank spins, then use the electric  
impact wrench I have and turn the bolt slightly, say 1/3 more?  

Thanks,
Gary H.


----
Please address private mail --  mail of interest to only one person -- 
directly to that person.  I.e.,  send parts/car transactions and negotiations as 

well as other personal  messages only to the intended recipient, not to the 
Clubhouse public address.  This practice will protect your privacy, reduce 
the total volume of mail and  fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  
Thanks!

1962 to 1965  Mopar Clubhouse Discussion  Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and  
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.  



--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly 
to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as 
other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse 
public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume 
of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 



      


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 












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