Gary, this will probably stir up a debate, but this is what I have done and 6 years experience has been trouble free ---except for the fluid pressure switches as used on early Mopars. For some reason they are short lived. If you have installed all new wheel cylinders and all new brake lines and M/C , use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. It does not get the outside of your M/C rusty and wet- does not destroy its finish if painted. , does not harm paint if spilled. I do not believe for a second that it "draws moisture " and that collects in the lines. J.M.O......................MO
{Steve Mick} http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 11:29 PM Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?
Thank you Stan, Rich, and Mark for your input thus far.Yes, your experience on the piston diameter harmonizes with the information I have read re: master cylinder selection. The smaller piston bore in the MC requires less pedal effort and more pedal travel than the larger 1 1/8"...MC piston bores. The 1" bore MC should be used with the drum/drum and disc/drum manual setups and is recommended with the manual disc/disc setups because excessive pedal pressure is required if a large bore MC is used. The larger bore is suited for power assist disc/drum and disc/disc if I remember correctly.Not sure if the 1.032" bore billet aluminum Mopar Master Cylinder requires nearly the same "reasonable" pedal pressure as the 1" bore cast iron; I like the plastic resevoir and caps for filling and checking the fluid levels as opposed to the cast iron MC with metal bar and one-piece metal cap - too much chance to spill fluid I think as well as residual fluid dripping down the sides of MC eating the painted MC surface.Any more information specifically on the billet alum. vs. the cast iron MC's?Thanks again, Gary----- Original Message ----- From: <chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx>To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 7:39 PM Subject: Re: Mopar master cylinders - preference?I'm not sure this will be helpful or not, but I used a 1 1/8" master(aluminum 2-bolt listed for a '79 Dodge pickup from the local store for 20 bucks) on my '69 Coronet with a MagnumHP adapter and I have to practically stand on the pedal to stop it. When I did my '64 Polara 'vert, I used one with a 1" bore(listed as '81 Mirada also from the local store for 20 bucks) and the same adapter and it stops very well with much less effort. I'll be switching the one on the Coronet when I get a chance to the smaller one.Mark----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Pavlovich" <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 10:00:00 PM Subject: Mopar master cylinders - preference? Hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas.It is time for me to select a Mopar master cylinder for my four-wheel manual disc brake Plymouth. I know staying with a 1" diameter MC piston will reduce the effort needed on the pedal to actuate the manual system but does anyone have exeperience/suggestions as to which Master Cylinder is preferred - the Mopar 1 1/16" billet aluminum from the Diff Doctor ($100 with adapter) or the Mopar cast iron unit sold by Master Power Brake ($89)?The plastic caps on the billet alum. one seem like less chance of spilling the caustic brake fluid as opposed to the swing over bar on the cast iron unit.Let me know from your experience... Thank you, Gary Pavlovich [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ----Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.----Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.