RE: Hard start but runs fine

[Rich Kinsley <rlkinsley@xxxxxxxxx>]

Use a brass feeler gauge. Minimun .08"  Maximum .10"

Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies

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Dodger7998@xxxxxxx wrote:
> 
> 
> do not remember the gap, but yes need non metalic or brass feeler  guage 
> 
> never did figure out the exact problem, just know that it would fire 
> when  I 
> would let off of the key, but not when cranking, and like you I had even 
> 
> tried  a jumper direct from battery,,,,,,,,,,,
>  
>  
> In a message dated 12/22/2010 3:47:28 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
> micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> 
> 
> Dodger, Thanks for the reply-- the distributor looks fairly  new. I did 
> not 
> take off the cap. In your problem was the shaft wobbly to  cause the 
> iconsistancy in the gap?  Do I need a non metalic feeler  guage to check 
> 
> all 
> the gaps around the reluctor - stator? What should the  gap be? 
> ....................MO
> {Steve  Mick}
> http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202
> ----- Original  Message ----- 
> From: "Roger Pettigrew" <dodger7998@xxxxxxx>
> To:  <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 3:18  PM
> Subject: Re: Hard start but runs fine
> 
> 
> >
> >
> >  Mo,,,,,,,  I had a bad distributor once that acted the same   way,...... 
> >  
> > the
> > reluctor and stator gap was not  constant,,,,,,   got another one you 
> could
> > drop in and see  what happens,,,,,
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/22/2010  2:59:33 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> > micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx  writes:
> >
> >
> > I  got my newly aquires 383 Fury started  yesterday , but messed with so
> > many
> > things, I don't know what  it took to start! After starting it ran great
> > nice
> > throttle  responce and sustained rpm. To me that rules out the fuel  
> > pump
> >  and
> > the ignition after getting it started.  And even after   having been 
> warmed
> > up
> > , it still won't fire up.  I  checked the  ballast resistor-- bright 
> > test
> > light on the one side  ( 12 volts)  and  dimmer test light on the other 
> >  end(
> > voltage drop as it should.)  Dim  test light on the  input side of the 
> > coil.
> > I wasn't to sure on that as I   have no experience with Mopar electronic
> > ignition. . I ran a jumper  wire  directly  from the battery to the 12 
> volt
> > side of the  ballast to make  sure there was no reistance somewhere- no
> >  help.
> > and then hooked that  jumper wire to the input side of the  coil so it 
> > had
> > full 12 volts. No  help. All the time making sure  the intake had gas in 
> > 
> > it.
> >
> > It has open  headers  and so I could hear every little thing going on.
> > --CLUE-
> >  when  I  LET OFF  the ignition switch when cranking it overit  would
> > sometimes
> > fire, but not enough to start the engine most  times.   However when the
> > engine did start, it was because  this same thing happened  and there 
> > was
> > enough to get it started.  .All the while the battery charger  was on 
> > high
> > and
> > the  starter moror spun it over well, After getting it  started one of  
> the
> > times, I checked the timeing  by engine smoothness  at  lower speed and 
> > it
> > seemed to be pretty close. Anyone have any   ideahs???? Thanks
> > .....................MO
> > {Steve   Mick}
> >  http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202
> >
> >
> >  ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only  one  person -- 
> > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car  transactions  and 
> > negotiations as
> > well as other personal  messages only to the intended  recipient, not to 
> > 
> > the
> >  Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect  your privacy,  
> reduce
> > the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal   to Mopar 
> topic.
> > Thanks!
> >
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse  Discussion  Guidelines:
> >  http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> >  http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >  --
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been  removed]
> >
> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail --  mail of interest to only one person --  
> > directly to that  person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and 
> > negotiations as  well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> > recipient, not  to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will 
> protect 
> > your  privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content 
> > 
> >  signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >
> > 1962 to 1965 Mopar  Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> >  http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> >  http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> >
> >
> >  
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only  one person -- 
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions  and 
> negotiations as 
> well as other personal messages only to the intended  recipient, not to 
> the 
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect  your privacy, 
> reduce 
> the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal  to Mopar 
> topic.  
> Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion  Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and  
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 



Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies
http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-kinsley64polara.html


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.