I made my power bleeder using the opposite method. I used and old
nebulizer pump I got from work (free) and set it up with a hose on the
suction port. Then plumbed it through a clear jar so I could see the
fluid. Then you just move it from one bleeder screw to the next. The
drawback on my system is you either need an assistant to keep the master
cylinder full or you have to get up and down alot to watch it yourself.
You also need a catch jar to collect the fluid coming out of the
bleeder.
I like the sprayer method better though. It looks like a good weekend
project.
Paul L.
'63 Sport Fury
440/727
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-lennemann63.html
Herb wrote:
>
>
> The Power Bleeder is a one time investment!! (-;
>
>
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: MO ( Steve Mick)
> Date: 9/29/2010 2:13:14 PM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Bench bleeding Master Cylinder? (Power Bleeder)
>
> Holy Moly Herb---My bleeder, all you have to do is take her out for a
> burger
> and a beer! and she also makes sure the reservoir doesn't run dry. :-)
> ..... MO
> {Steve Mick}
> http://stevemick.shutterfly.com/pictures#Part%202
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Herb" <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "1962 to 1965 Mopars" <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 9:32 AM
> Subject: RE: Bench bleeding Master Cylinder? (Power Bleeder)
>
>
>
>
> http://www.speedibleed.com/products/specialitykits2.php#2
>
> I forgot to add this link. Here are other adapters to fit most
> applications
> One bleeder, fit many cars!
>
>
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Herb
> Date: 9/29/2010 9:28:26 AM
> To: 1962 to 1965 Mopars
> Subject: RE: Bench bleeding Master Cylinder? (Power Bleeder)
>
>
> http://www.eastwood.com/early-american-auto-power-bleeder.html A basic
> unit
>
>
> http://www.speedibleed.com/order/k300.php Better setup W case.
>
> http://www.speedibleed.com/order/k300b.php WO Case.
>
> Shop around for better pricing.
>
> No matter were the bleeder is at it has to be on top or above the puck
> that
> squeezes the pads.
>
>
>
>
>               
> Herb
>
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> 1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban 318 Poly
> 1962 Dodge Dart 225 Slant Six 4-Sale
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1L
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> 1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
> St. Louis, MO.
>
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
>
>
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Jeff Adams
> Date: 9/29/2010 8:45:46 AM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: Bench bleeding Master Cylinder? (Power Bleeder)
>
> The SSBC kit calipers are copies of the Kelsey Hayes that Chrysler used
> in the early 70's and the bleeder is on the OUTSIDE of the caliper!
> Fortuneately I have Dragstar-type wheels and the windows are big enough
> to get a wrench in to bleed with, otherwise it would be necessary to
> remove the wheels first. I DID bench bleed the MC before installing it.
> I'm thinking the power bleeder is the way to go. Where did you get yours
> and how much was it? Thanks
>
> Herb wrote:
> >
> >
> > This is an honest mistake but, do you have the calipers on the correct
> > sides? The bleeders have to be on the top to be correct because the
> > calipers will fit from side to side. Even if they are on the correct
> > side
> > sometimes you need to unbolt the caliper and rotate it till the
> > bleeder
> > is
> > dead on top and then bleed the air out, especially with these
> > aftermarket
> > setups. Also with the caliper off to bleed use a pair of body vice
> > grips or
> > a piece of wood to keep the puck seated so you will be able slide it
> > back
> > over the rotor with out having to re-compress it.
> >
> > Power bleeders are great to have and I am very happy with mine. It
> > makes
> > bleeding a one man operation, and with the caliper off as mentioned
> > above,
> > just rotate it back and forth slightly with the bleeder open until you
> > get
> > no air. By the way you still need to bench bleed the master before
> > you
> > get
> > started on a dry system even with a power bleeder. When you start
> > looking
> > there are two methods the less effective one is a vacuum pump that you
> > use
> > at the wheel cylinders, or my choice the type you attach to the top of
> > the
> > master, pressurize the reservoir and just bled away till you run out
> > of
> > fluid. Both systems will work but I'm lazy and hate getting up and
> > down to
> > fill the master every few pumps of the vacuum type. Just my two!!
> >
> >
> >
> >          
> >     
> > Herb
> >
> > 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 4-Sale
> > 1959 Coronet 326 Poly
> > 1961 Belvedere Custom Suburban 318 Poly
> > 1962 Dodge Dart 225 Slant Six 4-Sale
> > 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1L
> > 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
> > 1970 Chrysler 300 Hurst 440
> > 1999 Durango SLT 5.9L
> > 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1L
> > St. Louis, MO.
> >
> > http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------Original Message-------
> >
> > From: Jeff Adams
> > Date: 9/29/2010 6:27:45 AM
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: RE: Bench bleeding Master Cylinder?
> >
> > I installed an SSBC disc kit a few weeks ago on the 64 Polara and have
> > bled the brakes with my wife's help, but I still have mushy brakes. I
> > bled them till I got NO air out, but obviously there IS still air in
> > the
> > lines. I'm thinking about either buying or building a power bleeder
> > since I now have to bleed the brakes on the 70 Dodge Sweptline I just
> > bought to make a gasser out of. Anybody ever built or used a power
> > bleeder?
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
> Jeff Adams
> 64 Polara
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not
> to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
> Mopar
> topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www
> 1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not
> to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
> Mopar
> topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www
> 1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not
> to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
> Mopar
> topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not
> to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to
> Mopar
> topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www
> 1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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