Re: Super Stock Springs Update

[Dave64 <lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx>]

Steve,

You are probably right about that - thanks.  My success with the rearend still has the snubber not lining up.  I seem to remember longer ones now that you mention it.  Not a big deal right now as just solving the vibration is a big victory, but I'll check into that some more.

We had college orientation this weekend with our daughter, and I was using Vicodin for the arm.  Friday night it began to feel better, and it feels like it's healing today - much better even without the Vicodin.  The popping noise still has me concerned, so I may still see the doc to make sure there isn't something that should be fixed in there.  But for now it feels like it'll heal on it's own - much better than on Thursday night.

Thanks,

Dave

--- On Sat, 6/19/10, MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: MO ( Steve Mick) <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Super Stock Springs Update
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Saturday, June 19, 2010, 5:08 PM
> 
> Hi Dave, I think I forgot to mention-- pinion snubbers are
> probably different lengths, depending on which body size
> they came offf of. That may be why yours does not line up
> where it should.............later..........Steve
> 
> {Steve Mick}
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mick64.html
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave64" <lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 9:32 PM
> Subject: Re: Super Stock Springs Update
> 
> 
> Success!  I took it all apart with the initial idea
> that I'd try the stock hangers.  I measured my old
> springs and the new springs.  The difference in the
> front segment is 1 1/4" (21" stock v. 19 3/4" Super
> Stock).  The driveshaft measured out to have right
> about 1 1/2" of total travel in it. It was maxed out
> rearward with the 2" extended front hangers.  I
> determined that it probably wouldn't bolt back on if I used
> the stock hangers - or if it did it would be maxed out
> forward with no play.  So I drilled new holes in the 2"
> hangers - 3/4" forward.  Because it was so close to the
> two original holes they came with, I had to drill the new
> hole forward and in the middle of the existing holes. 
> So I lost just a bit of height (no big deal), and the
> ability to adjust them up or down if I want.  I
> actually could drill more holes higher up for adjustability
> if I want.  By my math - with this new setup - my
> driveshaft should have 3/4" of travel each forward and
> back.  I put it all back together, and viola!  No
> more vibration.  Still looks great, too.  I'm a
> happy camper now.
> 
> Just one casualty tonight.  When I was putting one of
> the springs back on I pushed it with bad body position
> (mine), and something popped in my arm.  It hurts big
> time and is basically unusable.  My wife tried to drag
> me to the doc, but you know how that is.  I finished
> the job - which took longer with only one good wing. 
> Afterward I took a Vicodin (left over from my hip surgery),
> and we'll see what happens.  She thinks I ruptured a
> biceps tendon.  I'll give it through the weekend, and
> if no progress, I'll go to the doc.  I'm glad this
> solution worked, because I won't be able to do anything like
> that again for awhile until my arm heals.
> 
> Thanks guys for all of your help!
> 
> Dave
> 
> --- On Sat, 6/5/10, Dave64 <lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
> 
> > From: Dave64 <lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: Re: Super Stock Springs Update
> > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: Saturday, June 5, 2010, 10:44 PM
> > Maybe I'll just drill my own holes in
> > the 2" hangers. @ things I forgot to mention in my
> > last bit of info. Yes, my driveshaft is a ball and
> > trunion. And I also see that my pinion snubber lines
> > up to contact nothing but air under there - it won't
> hit the
> > underside of the car as it is. Another indication
> that
> > the whole thing is back too far.
> > 
> > Dave
> > 
> > --- On Sat, 6/5/10, Donald Gallimore <dongallimore@xxxxxxx>
> > wrote:
> > 
> > > From: Donald Gallimore <dongallimore@xxxxxxx>
> > > Subject: Re: Super Stock Springs Update
> > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > > Date: Saturday, June 5, 2010, 12:20 PM
> > > I did a lot of buy and try effort
> > > with my '65 Belvedere trying to get the correct
> > front
> > > spring hangers. The 2" was too much (no pun
> > intended), the
> > > factory unit was too short. I ended up using an
> > A-Body
> > > set I found at a swap meet. They moved the
> spring
> > perch
> > > back about 1". Note that from what I've read,
> > there is a
> > > difference in front spring eye location between
> the
> > '65
> > > Belvedere's and '65 Coronets. There is a 1"
> > > difference. The Belvedere is 116" wheelbase and
> the
> > > Coronet 117". Read that in the Darrell Davis book
> on
> > the
> > > '65 Hemi cars. Anyone got that book handy that
> could
> > > veryify that info and supply the details?
> > >
> > > Measured the the frame to spring eye on my cars
> in
> > the
> > > garage. For the dead stock '65 Satellite, it is
> 2
> > 3/8".
> > > For the '65 Belvedere with the SS springs and
> the
> > A-Body
> > > front spring hanger, it is 3 1/2". So, by
> deduction,
> > it
> > > appears the difference is roughly 1" between the
> stock
> > and
> > > SS front spring segment length. Again, this is a
> > B-Body
> > > Plymouth, not a Dodge.
> > >
> > > Akron Don Gallimore
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message ----
> > > > From: Dave64 <lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx>
> > > > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > > > Sent: Sat, June 5, 2010 11:42:54 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: Super Stock Springs Update
> > > >
> > > > I switched the driveshaft around - no
> change.
> > The
> > > brakes are ok - no
> > > > draging. I noticed the rear wheels are back
> > farther
> > > than before - which
> > > > got me thinking about the extended front
> > hangers.
> > > The driveshaft is back
> > > > about as far as it will go to connect now.
> So
> > this
> > > appears to be at least
> > > > part of the issue. The pinion angle looks
> like
> > it's
> > > about 0 degrees at the
> > > > moment - so this could be another part. The
> DC
> > book
> > > says 5-7 degrees nose
> > > > down - but I think that's more for racing.
> > About 3
> > > degrees or so may be
> > > > about right for the street? What's the best
> > way
> > > (tool) to accurately
> > > > measure it?
> > >
> > > When I noticed the wheels are back farther, I
> thought
> > about
> > >
> > > > taking the 2" front hangers off and putting
> the
> > stock
> > > ones back on. This
> > > > would move the rearend forward about 2". If
> I
> > push
> > > the driveshaft in all
> > > > the way, I have about that much, so that
> might
> > push it
> > > in to the max or close to
> > > > it. I don't know if that would be good or
> > not. If
> > > I go back to the
> > > > stock front hangers, it may also push the
> nose of
> > the
> > > pinion up more - going in
> > > > the opposite direction of where it needs to
> go.
> > But
> > > then shims could
> > > > correct that. I think part of the issue is
> the
> > 2"
> > > extended front
> > > > hangers. I think about 1" would be a happy
> > medium -
> > > seems that 2" is too
> > > > much, but stock is too little. I could put
> the
> > front
> > > spring eyes up in the
> > > > upper mounting hole (they're in the lowers
> now),
> > but I
> > > don't think that would
> > > > change much. Maybe it would?
> > >
> > > At this point, I'm out of time.
> > > > My daughter is graduating from HS tomorrow,
> and
> > I
> > > can't experiment any more
> > > > today and also help get a party ready. I'm
> > > disappointed that I won't get
> > > > to drive the car to her graduation, but the
> > weather
> > > may have eliminated that
> > > > anyway. Once we're past this weekend, I'll
> > > experiment some more. I
> > > > think my next move may be to put the stock
> front
> > > hangers back on and see what
> > > > that does.
> > >
> > > Thanks for the help, and keep the ideas
> > > > coming.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > --- On Fri, 6/4/10, MO ( Steve Mick) <>
> > > ymailto="mailto:micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx";
> > >
> > > > href="mailto:micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx";>micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > >
> > > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > From: MO ( Steve Mick) <>
> > ymailto="mailto:micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx";
> > >
> > > > href="mailto:micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx";>micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > >
> > > > Subject: Re: Super Stock Springs Update
> > > > To: > ymailto="mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx";
> > >
> > > > href="mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx";>1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > > >
> > > > Date: Friday, June 4, 2010, 5:37 PM
> > > >
> > > > On ball and trunions and
> > > > slip yokes. You must be sure that
> > > > with car weight on the axels, that
> > > > there is room for the
> > > > drive shaft to be able to "give" frontward
> and
> > > > backward.
> > > > without bottoming out. With slip yokes, if
> they
> > are
> > >
> > > > to
> > > > close to the spline ends that will make the
> yoke
> > loose
> > > and
> > > >
> > > > definatly make a viberation. Also if the
> yoke
> > splines
> > > are
> > > > worn and loose
> > > > fitting, that will make a vibration.
> > > > Even brake shoe drag will make a
> > > > vibration you would think
> > > > was coming from the
> > > >
> > > > driveline...............................MO
> > > >
> > > > {Steve Mick}
> > > >
> > > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mick64.html
> > > >
> > > > ----- > > Original Message ----- From:
> "David Bailey"
> > <>
> > > ymailto="mailto:bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx";
> > >
> > > > href="mailto:bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx";>bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > To:
> > > > <> > > href="mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx";>1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > > >
> > > > Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 6:40 AM
> > > > Subject: RE: Super Stock Springs
> > > > Update
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I’m no expert by
> > > > far, but I’d be inclined to agree with
> > > > your suspicions…that is 1. To
> > > > check drive shaft length /
> > > > straightness and what about the
> universal(s)
> > > > joints / Ball
> > > > Trunion, are these fresh? By a remote
> chance,
> > maybe
> > > > by
> > > > simply rotating the drive shaft connecting
> point
> > > could
> > > >
> > > > restore smooth operation. And 2. The pinion
> > > > angle, someone else will
> > > > know better but is the angle of 3
> > > > degrees still a commonly accepted
> > > > point?
> > > > Dave B.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > To: > ymailto="mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx";
> > >
> > > > href="mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx";>1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> > > >
> > > > > From: > href="mailto:lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx";>lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx
> > > > > Subject:
> > > > Super Stock Springs Update
> > > > > Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 20:42:04
> > > > -0700
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > After chasing after the correct
> > > > brake setup, I have my
> > > > '64 Belvedere all buttoned up and back on 4
> > > > wheels. Here's a
> > > > rundown of what I did.
> > > > > I installed a later
> > > > model 8 3/4 rearend (I think it's
> > > > a '68 B body). I used my old 741 third
> > > > member, put new green
> > > > bearings on the "new" axles, and put new
> brakes
> > on
> > > > it
> > > > (11'x2"). I also installed 3400lb SS springs
> with
> > the
> > > 2"
> > > >
> > > > extended front hanger brackets along with
> new
> > (longer)
> > > Mopar
> > > > drag
> > > > shocks.
> > > > >
> > > > > The result: I really like how it looks
> now,
> > 
> > > > but it has
> > > > a bad vibration starting at around just 20
> mph. A
> > few
> > > >
> > > > assessments I make are: the third member is
> my
> > old one
> > > - I
> > > > had no
> > > > problems before, so I'm figuring that is ok.
> The
> > > > axles look fine - don't
> > > > appear to be bent or anything, so
> > > > for now I think they're ok. No change
> > > > in tires or wheels, so
> > > > that shouldn't be it.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > This leaves me with the theory that it's
> > driveshaft
> > > > related. Either the
> > > > length of the driveshaft could be an
> > > > issue (as suggested previously
> > > > here), or maybe the pinion
> > > > angle now isn't correct. Because I changed
> > > > several things
> > > > all at once, I've left myself in a position
> of
> > > > having
> > > > several possible areas that could be the
> problem.
> > And
> > > I
> > > > also
> > > > didn't have the forethought of measuring
> the
> > > driveshaft
> > > >
> > > > length or checking the pinion angle on my
> > previously
> > > > non-vibrating
> > > > setup, so determining if those things are
> at
> > > > issue will be more of a
> > > > challenge. I'm bummed out that I did
> > > > a lot of work and now have a car
> > > > that's essentially not
> > > > driveable until I get this figured out and
> fixed.
> > 
> > > > As always,
> > > > your help is much appreciated. What do you
> guys
> > > > think?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > Dave
> > > > > '64 Belvedere 2D HT, Auto
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
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> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
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>