Re: Super Stock Springs Update
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Re: Super Stock Springs Update



I did a lot of buy and try effort with my '65 Belvedere trying to get the correct front spring hangers.  The 2" was too much (no pun intended), the factory unit was too short.  I ended up using an A-Body set I found at a swap meet.  They moved the spring perch back about 1".  Note that from what I've read, there is a difference in front spring eye location between the '65 Belvedere's and '65 Coronets.  There is a 1" difference.  The Belvedere is 116" wheelbase and the Coronet 117".  Read that in the Darrell Davis book on the '65 Hemi cars. Anyone got that book handy that could veryify that info and supply the details?

Measured the the frame to spring eye on my cars in the garage.  For the dead stock '65 Satellite, it is 2 3/8".  For the '65 Belvedere with the SS springs and the A-Body front spring hanger, it is 3 1/2".  So, by deduction, it appears the difference is roughly 1" between the stock and SS front spring segment length.  Again, this is a B-Body Plymouth, not a Dodge.

Akron Don Gallimore



----- Original Message ----
> From: Dave64 <lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Sat, June 5, 2010 11:42:54 AM
> Subject: Re: Super Stock Springs Update
> 
> I switched the driveshaft around - no change.  The brakes are ok - no 
> draging.  I noticed the rear wheels are back farther than before - which 
> got me thinking about the extended front hangers.  The driveshaft is back 
> about as far as it will go to connect now.  So this appears to be at least 
> part of the issue.  The pinion angle looks like it's about 0 degrees at the 
> moment - so this could be another part.  The DC book says 5-7 degrees nose 
> down - but I think that's more for racing.  About 3 degrees or so may be 
> about right for the street?  What's the best way (tool) to accurately 
> measure it? 

When I noticed the wheels are back farther, I thought about 
> taking the 2" front hangers off and putting the stock ones back on.  This 
> would move the rearend forward about 2".  If I push the driveshaft in all 
> the way, I have about that much, so that might push it in to the max or close to 
> it.  I don't know if that would be good or not.  If I go back to the 
> stock front hangers, it may also push the nose of the pinion up more - going in 
> the opposite direction of where it needs to go.  But then shims could 
> correct that.  I think part of the issue is the 2" extended front 
> hangers.  I think about 1" would be a happy medium - seems that 2" is too 
> much, but stock is too little.  I could put the front spring eyes up in the 
> upper mounting hole (they're in the lowers now), but I don't think that would 
> change much.  Maybe it would?

At this point, I'm out of time.  
> My daughter is graduating from HS tomorrow, and I can't experiment any more 
> today and also help get a party ready.  I'm disappointed that I won't get 
> to drive the car to her graduation, but the weather may have eliminated that 
> anyway.  Once we're past this weekend, I'll experiment some more.  I 
> think my next move may be to put the stock front hangers back on and see what 
> that does.

Thanks for the help, and keep the ideas 
> coming.

Dave  

--- On Fri, 6/4/10, MO ( Steve Mick) <> ymailto="mailto:micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx"; 
> href="mailto:micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx";>micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
> wrote:

> From: MO ( Steve Mick) <> ymailto="mailto:micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx"; 
> href="mailto:micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx";>micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> Subject: Re: Super Stock Springs Update
> To: > ymailto="mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx"; 
> href="mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx";>1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> 
> Date: Friday, June 4, 2010, 5:37 PM
> 
> On ball and trunions and 
> slip yokes. You must be sure that
> with car weight on the axels, that 
> there is room for the
> drive shaft to be able to "give" frontward and 
> backward.
> without bottoming out.  With slip yokes, if they are 
> to
> close to the spline ends that will make the yoke loose and
> 
> definatly make a viberation. Also if the yoke splines are
> worn and loose 
> fitting, that will make a vibration. 
> Even brake shoe drag will make a 
> vibration you would think
> was coming from the
> 
> driveline...............................MO
> 
> {Steve Mick}
> 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mick64.html
> 
> ----- 
> Original Message ----- From: "David Bailey" <> ymailto="mailto:bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx"; 
> href="mailto:bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx";>bb64d440@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: 
> <> href="mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx";>1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 6:40 AM
> Subject: RE: Super Stock Springs 
> Update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I’m no expert by 
> far, but I’d be inclined to agree with
> your suspicions…that is 1. To 
> check drive shaft length /
> straightness and what about the universal(s) 
> joints / Ball
> Trunion, are these fresh? By a remote chance, maybe 
> by
> simply rotating the drive shaft connecting point could
> 
> restore smooth operation.   And 2. The pinion
> angle, someone else will 
> know better but is the angle of 3
> degrees still a commonly accepted 
> point?
> Dave B.
> 
> 
> > To: > ymailto="mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx"; 
> href="mailto:1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx";>1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> 
> > From: > href="mailto:lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx";>lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: 
> Super Stock Springs Update
> > Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 20:42:04 
> -0700
> > 
> > 
> > After chasing after the correct 
> brake setup, I have my
> '64 Belvedere all buttoned up and back on 4 
> wheels. Here's a
> rundown of what I did.
> > I installed a later 
> model 8 3/4 rearend (I think it's
> a '68 B body). I used my old 741 third 
> member, put new green
> bearings on the "new" axles, and put new brakes on 
> it
> (11'x2"). I also installed 3400lb SS springs with the 2"
> 
> extended front hanger brackets along with new (longer) Mopar
> drag 
> shocks.
> > 
> > The result: I really like how it looks now, 
> but it has
> a bad vibration starting at around just 20 mph. A few
> 
> assessments I make are: the third member is my old one - I
> had no 
> problems before, so I'm figuring that is ok. The
> axles look fine - don't 
> appear to be bent or anything, so
> for now I think they're ok. No change 
> in tires or wheels, so
> that shouldn't be it.
> > 
> > 
> This leaves me with the theory that it's driveshaft
> related. Either the 
> length of the driveshaft could be an
> issue (as suggested previously 
> here), or maybe the pinion
> angle now isn't correct. Because I changed 
> several things
> all at once, I've left myself in a position of 
> having
> several possible areas that could be the problem. And I 
> also
> didn't have the forethought of measuring the driveshaft
> 
> length or checking the pinion angle on my previously
> non-vibrating 
> setup, so determining if those things are at
> issue will be more of a 
> challenge. I'm bummed out that I did
> a lot of work and now have a car 
> that's essentially not
> driveable until I get this figured out and fixed. 
> As always,
> your help is much appreciated. What do you guys 
> think?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > 
> Dave
> > '64 Belvedere 2D HT, Auto
> > 
> > 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ----
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> Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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> person --  directly to that person.  I.e., send
> 
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> address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total 
> volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  
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> 
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> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest 
> to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> 
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal 
> messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public 
> address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total 
> volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  
> Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion 
> Guidelines:
> > target=_blank >http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html 
> and
> > href="http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html"; 
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