Re: Aluminum Trim anodize remover
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Re: Aluminum Trim anodize remover




It works, maybe a little slow, but at least it won't eat your fingers off.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Butch Edison" <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 10:10 PM
Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim anodize remover



I have not tried this product, but do have it in my shop and will be using
it later in the year on some anodized aluminum trim from my 64 Sport Fury.
This product was recommended to me by a professional restorer. If anyone
tries it before I do, please post the results. Thanks/ Butch/ Ferndale, WA
http://www.bluelightningproducts.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Fried [mailto:mopar383fury@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 9:10 AM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Aluminum Trim


Copy that, its staying on and the minor dents will give it "personality"
hahahahha. When I get it back I will give a good once over to see if I could
just clean it and make it look nice on the car, but with Drano and Oven
cleaner maybe I should go to the shop and do it before paint!



All great advice!!!  I think I read someone around here had pictures of
doing just that?  If they do I'd love to see them



Derek

65 Sport Fury

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T



-----Original Message-----

From: Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 09:00:19

To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>

Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim





Derek,

   High level summary: very, very carefully.



   A lot of long side trim has screws at one or both ends - check

carefully before prying. Many of the clips (especially on the C-Barges) are

no longer available, so see if you can find somebody who has had the

moldings off a '65 Sport Fury as they could provide critical information. I

had the moldings off mine, but it was in 1979 (hey, that rhymes!).



   Most tool companies have "molding removal tools" and Harbor Freight

has a nifty set of plastic tools you can pick up for $5-7.  Cut and shape

them as needed - they're way cheaper than new moldings. Use cardboard or a

paint stick covered with duct tape as a prying-support to prevent kinking

body panels and chipping paint. You will probably find yourself improvising

- I think someone here on the 62-65 list gave me the tip about duct taping

an old bottle opener (Don, was that you?) and carefully working the drip

rails off.  I got mine about half way off and chickened out, choosing to

just work around them.  I may try again before painting...



   Anyway, get good info, work deliberately, and take your time.



SC



-----Original Message-----

From: Derek Fried [mailto:mopar383fury@xxxxxxx]

Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 7:37 PM

To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx

Subject: Re: Aluminum Trim







That all sounds great, and not too difficult.  However, how do I get my

moldings off?  I'm not talking about the ones held in by screws, but the

ones over the windows, etc.  Is there a trick to that?





Derek

65 Sport Fury











-----Original Message-----

From: Jeff Adams <ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx>

To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Wed, Mar 31, 2010 11:22 am

Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim







Yep, just did this a month ago Steve...stripped those long rocker mouldings

on the Fury. Mix the Drano with water in a spray bottle, but be careful, the

fumes are HOT and TOXIC! The trick is to heat up the part you're stripping.

My parts were stainless, but I think the principle is the same. Heat the

part and spray it with a good coat.

Sometimes it takes more than one application. I scrubbed mine with extra

fine steel wool and water, with gloves, rinsed it with water then polished

it. You may have to heat the part more than once. My trim is about 5 feet

long, so I did it in sections, heating it in front of my kerosene

salamander. Make sure your spray bottle can handle the Drano...

mine got a little soft, but worked ok.

Steve Charette wrote:





Seeing Don's mention of powder coating his grille jogged my memory -

right before the snow last year I attempted to strip my headlight

bezels with oven cleaner.  The results were not good.



Drano is granulated sodium hydroxide (lye) - has anyone tried Drano to

strip the brightcoat finish from aluminum trim?



Thanks,

SC



Steven Charette

Promerican Corporation

www.promerican.com <http://www.promerican.com/> 888-476-1210





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









Jeff Adams

64 Polara





----

Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --

directly

to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well

as

other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse



public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total

volume

of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!



1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





----

Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --

directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations

as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to

the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,

reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar

topic.  Thanks!



1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.





----

Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!



1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.









----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.






----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.












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