Re: Headers and....... Well, just headers this time around

[Bill <Y1TopBanana73@xxxxxxxxx>]

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Do they make headers for poly's too? or only big blocks?

-- 
Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html
http://www.marylandmopars.net/membersrides/Bill-MelissaCoronet/Bill-MelissaCoronet.htm
73 Dart Sport, 00 Cherokee Sport, 01 Dakota SLT
21 Model T Depot Hack, 92 Accord, 06 Mazda 3

On Mon, Feb 15, 2010 at 10:30 AM, Steven Charette
<stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> I'll start with disclosure - I work closely with Schumacher but can give
> first-hand facts as opposed to opinion.
>
> There are differences in the relationships of the engine and chassis from
> '62-'65 and '66-'72.  A few header manufacturers realize the difference and
> have designed the headers accordingly, and the remainder simply don't
> consider the '65 and earlier offerings.  Some headers listed as '66-later
> will indeed fit the '62-'65 cars, so the best source of information will be
> the folks on this list.
>
> I can vouch for the fit of the Schumacher headers on the '62-'65 cars as I
> have had my hand in a few installations.  The headers are a tri-y design,
> with 1 5/8" primary into 2" y's, then a 2 1/2" collector.  Fitment is
> excellent, with ample room to change plugs and not burn wires (straight or
> angle plugs) and the ability to change the starter without removing the
> headers (stock length starter or mini, not the longer 2hp variety).  No
> clearance issues with power steering, brakes, A/C, etc.  The tubes are 14
> gauge steel and are oriented so that you can use a socket to torque the 3/8"
> laser-cut header flange to the head to ensure good sealing.  The thicker
> tubing also helps damp the "ticky-tick" sound of cheap headers. Retention of
> the studs is recommended in lieu of header bolts, and simplifies
> installation.  Basically you jack the motor up and drop 'em in.
>
> An important note is that these headers are designed for automatic
> transmission use - they must be modified for stick use.  Also bear in mind
> that many aftermarket heads position the exhaust ports differently which can
> influence clearance and fit.  One other consideration is that these
> mass-produced cars have production tolerances that are exacerbated by being
> beaten up and down the roads for 50 years or the cars have been disassembled
> and reassembled.  A header that fits perfectly on one car and engine
> combination may not fit another identical model car and engine combination
> without modification or adjustment.
>
> The Schumacher header was designed primarily for street use, or as an
> upgrade to HP manifolds.  Many people snub their nose at the 1 5/8" tube,
> but testing has proven that the tube size is actually more efficient than a
> 2" tube well into the 12 second range.  Low end torque and cold driveability
> are maintained which cannot be said of larger headers.
>
> We're often asked "How much horsepower will they make?" which is a tough
> question with a lot of variables.  We have chosen E.T. as a rough guideline
> - once a combination is much below 12 seconds in performance (particularly
> at higher RPM) suffers.  Engine displacement has a lot to do with this,
> along with many other factors.
>
> Our testing results can be seen at www.engine-swaps.com by scrolling to the
> bottom of the page and clicking the "Smokin' Barracuda" link.  I have also
> done some flow study and can evaluate the suitability of the headers for
> specific combinations if you contact me off-list.
>
> Bottom line:  Expect leaks and fitment problems with economy headers
> (Blackjack, etc.)  Expect to pay in excess of $400 for a decent header.
> Large diameter tubes are great for high horsepower drag cars but fit,
> driveability, serviceability, and ground clearance suffer.
>
> For ease of installation and maintenance I highly recommend the Schumacher
> headers for street driven applications.  For higher-horsepower applications
> I recommend TTI headers.
>
> SC

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