Re: replacing gaskets: engine oil pan and Torquflite
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Re: replacing gaskets: engine oil pan and Torquflite




Thanks Herb. I'm using mostly restored disc brake parts from a 1973 Dart. One of the guys in my local club specializes in these conversions, so it's been pretty painless so far. He provided pretty much everything, I'll give him back my control arms as cores. I went with the small rotors so I can use my 14 inch steel wheels and factory spinners. I also rebuilt the back brakes, replaced the springs & hardware, replaced all the brake lines, the torsion bars, all ball joints, bj sleeves, pitman arm, idler arm, shocks, control arm bumpers, etc. Hoping to have a car as good as the new one I had in 1964. I'm in the process of making up some brake lines right now to fit up with the Mopar Performance porportioning valve I got. the "Disc-Tech" article on Mopar Action? has been a BIG help. 


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Doug Daniel" <dougdaniel50@xxxxxxxxx> 
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx 
Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2010 2:10:37 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: replacing gaskets: engine oil pan and Torquflite 

herb has it right on the nail ,,,but with out a doubt drain converter and change the filter and new fluid then your good to go ,do not over do the rtv 

--- On Sun, 1/3/10, Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 

> From: Herb <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx> 
> Subject: Re: replacing gaskets: engine oil pan and Torquflite 
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx 
> Date: Sunday, January 3, 2010, 2:52 PM 
> 
> 
> Get a second gasket for the top. Also it is a good 
> idea to put a thin coat 
> of RTV on both sides of both gaskets and torque them 
> down. People get 
> carried away with beads of RTV that squeeze into the engine 
> and clog up the 
> oil pickup. 
> 
> 1. The fluid is actually up into the tube, and it is 
> correct. 
> 
> 2. The cork/rubber is a big improvement and I would 
> use the same technic 
> with RTV as the engine oil pan. 
> 
> 3. Their is about eight more quarts in the converter 
> if you want to drain 
> it. If your fluid is burnt I would recommend changing 
> it also. If not just 
> what is in the pan is OK but would recommend cleaning the 
> screen or 
> replacing the filter what ever your application is. 
> If you have not drained 
> the converter starting the engine & adding fluid is no 
> problem. Just 
> remember check the fluid in newtral, not park. The 
> precaution of 
> overfilling initially is when starting with a empty 
> converter and putting 
> more than five or six quarts and then starting the 
> engine. You will not 
> have any problems with draining just the pan! 
> 
> Hope this helps. 
> 
> Let us know how the disc conversion worked out also!! 
> 
>           
> Herb 
> 
> 1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361 
> 1959 Coronet 326 Poly 
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1 
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361 
> 1970 Challenger RT 440 - 4 Sale 
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9 
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1 
> St. Louis, MO. 
> 
> http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html 

> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------Original Message------- 
> 
> From: Butch Edison 
> Date: 1/3/2010 1:04:29 PM 
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx 
> Subject: replacing gaskets: engine oil pan and Torquflite 
> 
> Welcome to the new year everyone. My son and I spent a good 
> deal of the 
> holidays rebuilding the front end of one of my 64 Sport 
> Furys and converting 
> the drum brakes to disc. Both the oil pan and transmission 
> pan were leaking, 
> so dropped them both to re-seal. Some questions I have, 
> would appreciate 
> your help: 
> 
> Engine Oil pan: I'd pre-purchased a rubber and steel oil 
> pan gasket. To my 
> surprise, when I dropped the oil pan, there is a windage 
> tray on the motor. 
> This wasn't done in 1964 for 383 engines from the factory. 
> I'm assuming 
> whoever rebuilt the engine put it in for a reason, so will 
> stick with it, so 
> do I need another gasket to go on top of the windage tray? 
> You may have 
> other, better ideas. Sealant? If so, what type and any 
> cautions about use 
> would be appreciated. I flattened out all the dimples 
> around the bolt holes 
> on the pan, so am pretty much good to go there. 
> 
> Transmission pan: The car has the original ball & 
> trunnion set up, A727 
> transmission. 
> 1. I can see that someone put in a chrome dipstick tube, 
> which prompts my 
> first question. With the pan off, I can see that the 
> dipstick only protrudes 
> into the oil sump about 3/8". If you have a similar setup, 
> do you recall if 
> this is correct? Seems weird to me that the markings for 
> low-high on the 
> dipstick are actually a ways up the dipstick into the 
> tube. 
> 2. The only gasket I could get through my local parts house 
> is a cork and 
> rubber gasket. I've not changed a gasket in 40 years, but 
> hated the cork 
> ones we used at that time. Lot of mumbo jumbo then about 
> soaking the 
> gaskets, using gasket sealer, catching a full moon, doing a 
> secret 
> handshake, etc. How do you recommend sealing up the 
> transmission pan. 
> 3. I got about 4 1/2 quarts of tf fluid when I dropped the 
> pan. That seems 
> like a lot, which is why I questioned the length of the dip 
> stick. Assuming 
> I put in the amount I got out, should I put in 3 quarts 
> before starting the 
> engine, run it for a minute, then add another quart with 
> the engine off, 
> test from there? I'd seen some cautions previously about 
> adding too much 
> initially and don't want that, but also don't want to 
> starve the 
> transmission. 
> 
> Thanks all. /Butch/ Ferndale, WA 
> 
> 
> ---- 
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one 
> person -- 
> directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car 
> transactions and negotiations 
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended 
> recipient, not to 
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect 
> your privacy, 
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content 
> signal to Mopar 
> topic. Thanks! 
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> http://www 
> 1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] 
> 
> 
> ---- 
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one 
> person -- directly to that person. I.e., send 
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other 
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the 
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your 
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the 
> content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 
> 
> 
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. 

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