RE: How difficult - Front suspension rebuild

[62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx]

My guess is nothing on the suspension has ever been replaced.. so I'll 
bet dollars to dounuts all the parts are 46+ years old ;)

I was thinking kit.. so I could replace everything involved in the FS

I checked Bill Rolik site for a kit... no C-body kits :(

NAPA and RockAuto don't have kits either.. 

RockAuto ball joints (for both MOOG and SPICER/RAYBESTOS) are about half 
the cost of NAPA brand ball joints

If I can't find a decent kit(so far the only kit I found is from 
Kanter.com).. what all do I need on my shopping list?

2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
(do they come with bushings?) 
Control arm bushings?
what else ???

waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd hate to see you short change yourself. Once you're into it, do it 
> right l. You won't regret it if you do. There are probably some 45 (+) 
> year old parts that will benefit from being replaced. Very likely, you, 
> or your mechanic will find that all the bushings are shot, so figure on 
> a complete front end rebuild .  Even if bushings  "look okay" they are 
> going to be dry as a bone and not provide any cushioning to the front 
> end. Not that big a deal. A full front end kit wll accomplish most of 
> that. 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd highly recommend replacing the torsion bars and bushings as well, if 
> you want your car to have a new car ride. Carefully check the steering 
> coupler. If it has ANY play in it, rebuild it as well. Sometimes, sloppy 
> handling can be attributed to something like ball joints, when it's 
> actually a steering coupler or a  steering unit that's so far gone it 
> needs a rebuild. 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the Mopar mags recently had a 3-part series on rebuilding your 
> front end and steering. If I can find them, I'll contact you offline . 
> Whether you do it yourself or have a mechanic doing the work, they were 
> very informative. 
> 
> 
> 
> Doug S. if you are out there, please jump in and let us know how it went 
> for you getting your front end work done. 
> 
> 
> 
> /Butch/ Ferndale, WA 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: 62pluckedchicken@xxxxxxxxx 
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 8:09:53 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
> Subject: RE: How difficult - Front suspension rebuild 
> 
> 
> The only thing I know fro sure he said was bad were the ball joints, an 
> bushings.. but said when he got it apart there may be other parts that 
> need to be replaced.. 
> 
> I just figured a kit, with most all the compentents of the front 
> suspension would be best.. cheaper than buying indivually, and just get 
> everyting in tip-top shape all at once.. 
> 
> does Bill Rolik have a website? 
> 
> 
> spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote: 
> > 
> > Certainly you can do the job yourself. 
> > 
> > Help advice is available here at a reasonable cost. ;-) Â  
> > 
> > "Kits" vary all over the place in terms of what they include; some 
> > "complete" kits are not; some use generic parts of unknown quality. 
> > 
> > What are you going to replace? 
> > 
> > You may want to contact Bill Rolik in N.J. for a quote and list of what 
> > his kits use; that is, his company puts together kits only using heavy 
> > duty Spicer Professional Series front suspension parts. 
> > 
> > Or go to Rock Auto and price out the parts using Moog brand. 
> > 
> > Thanks, 
> > Gary H. 
> > 
> > -----Original Message----- 
> > Â  
> > > 
> > > 
> > >I just got a quote for doing the front end w/shocks for $2000 and the 
> > >rear w/o shocks (already replaced) for $1000 
> > > 
> > >As those who have met me know, Â I'm not a mechanic, but not afraid to 
> > >get my hands dirty. 
> > > 
> > >I found a rebuild kit for the front-end (at Kanter.com) for $236 
> > >includes ball joints, bushings, etc 
> > > 
> > >so should I just leave my car parked until I can raise the money and 
> > >have a pro do it? or is a front suspension rebuild doable for a guy with 
> > >
> > > 
> > >no experience? 
> 
> 
> ---- 
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> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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