Re: headlight switch grounded?

[Dan McCormack <mcwheels@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Mark I had to think about your problem overnight and this morning the light 
came on (pun intended) and I think I know what your problem is. The dash 
lights have a separate fuse that comes after the headlight switch but they 
also get their power from the taillight/brake light fuse which comes before 
the headlight switch. There should be 2 sources of 12 volt power going to 
the headlight switch. I think one is marked B1 on the switch and the other 
is marked B2. One of those is just for the incoming power to the headlights 
and the other one is for the incoming power to the taillights, parking 
lights, dash lights and in some cases the brake lights. I suspect the reason 
that your lights are working when you jump the switch is because you're 
jumping it to the headlight power and not the taillight power which in your 
case is probably dead. Go back to the fuse box and check the fuse that's 
marked taillights or brake lights. There should be power to both sides of 
that fuse at all times. If there's only power to one side the fuse is bad. 
If there's no power to either side then you have a problem with the wire 
supplying power to the fuse box, might be in the bulkhead connector. If you 
have power to both sides of the fuse then check to see if you have power to 
both the B1 and B2 leads going to the headlight switch. They both should 
have power even with the key off.

Hope this helps, Dan

Btw on a side note if anybody would like to have their parking lights stay 
on with the headlights like the new cars it's a simple fix. Take the parking 
light wire out of the harness going to the the headlight switch and splice 
it into the taillight wire.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: headlight switch grounded?




Brake lights also run through the headlight switch. I've been over the 
wiring diagrams a hundred times bu now.
Printed circuit board is OK. If I run a jumper from power across the 
switch(es) to where the dash lights and parking lights get power they work 
fine. Same with the brake lights.
I just can't see FIVE different switches all being bad.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Herb" <zephyr9900@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 9:46:26 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: headlight switch grounded?



NO, it doesn't have to be installed. Dash & interior lights could or
probably will be a problem with the dimmer portion of the switch. Turn the
knob back and forth to see if lights work or blink. Brake lights run
through the turn signal switch that is usually were that problem is. Also
check the printed circuit board on the back of your instrument panel for
thin sections burned open.

        
Herb

1956 Plymouth Belvedere 361
1959 Coronet 326 Poly
1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1
1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361
1970 Challenger RT 440
1999 Durango SLT 5.9
2006 300-C Heritage 5.7
2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1
St. Louis, MO.

http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo42009.html




-------Original Message------- 

From: chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx
Date: 5/10/2009 8:10:22 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: headlight switch grounded?


Hey all,

I'm in the process of fixing the melted wiring in my 64 Polara.
Does the headlight switch have to be grounded(to the dash I guess) to work
properly?
I've tried several switches and I have no dash, interior or brake lights.
This is with the switch plugged into the harness but not mounted to the dash


Mark

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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---- 
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations 
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to 
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, 
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar 
topic. Thanks!


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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