RE: 383 Cooling Problems

["Dennis C." <dennis.2914@xxxxxxxxx>]

Herb,

You are correct on all counts.  My concern is that after the thermostat 
fully opens I get a steady rise in temperature approching the boil over 
point.  

I do have a new water pump.  I am taking the temperature in a number of 
locations but the highest is on the thermostat houseing and top of the 
water pump near the probe for the temperature gauge.  The IR 
thermometers are very good for general trouble shooting however the 
surface being scanned will effect the reading indicated so I am careful 
to check a number of locations.

The indicated temperature on the Autometer temperature gauge I have in 
the car indicates about 10 degrees lower than temperature I am reading 
with the gun.

With the gun I can acutally look at the temperature of each tube in the 
radiator at the bottom.  As you know the outer ones do not cool when the 
car is not in motion and a good temperature drop can be seen on the 
tubes that the fan is drawing air through.  Virtually all newer cars 
have shrouds on their fans and some of our cars had shrouds.  I 
understand that some of our cars with A/C used them.

I tried the electric pusher fan when I couldn't find a shroud.  As I 
said I suspect it was a wast of money.  If I can find one with two fans 
side by side that is approximately 22" wide I would give it a try and 
put it at the bottom of the radiator core.

Even tough I am not boiling over the thermostat and fan are not in 
cotrol of coolant tempeature.  I am also aware that I will not boil over 
until an actual temperature of around 245 to 265 degrees.  I am very 
carful when I take the car out, no reason to ask for trouble.  Want I 
want and may not be able to do is to maintain a reasonably constant 
temperature.  I am just trying to avoid a possible problem.

Thanks for the comments.

Dennis C.     


Herb wrote:
> 
> Dennis; 
>  
> Is your car boiling over? What shape is the inside of the pump housing? 
> Is
> it smooth and clean or pitted and corroded? If your car is not boiling 
> over
> it is not overheating. You said you were getting 210 to 220 temp. That 
> is
> not the water temp it is the temp of the hose or pump or what ever you 
> were
> shooting not the water inside of it. The water or coolant is removing 
> the
> heat from the engine and it's components witch are all warmer than the
> coolant. The air passing through the radiator removes the heat from the
> coolant then it goes back in and starts all over again. Now if the 
> inside of
> your housing is pitted or corroded this causes turbulence in the pump
> reducing the efficiency or amount of coolant moved. Infra-red looks for 
> heat
>  so it is going to show the hottest part of an item. If the inside is 
>  hotter
> than the outside you see the contrast if the outside is hotter all you 
> see
> is the outside. So basically an IR gun really can't tell you the temp of 
> the
> coolant inside the cooling system other than removing the cap and shoot
> inside of the radiator. What temp is your gauge showing? That is a more
> accurate coolant temp number than an IR gun because it's in the coolant! 
>  I
> don't thing your problem is as big as you think it is.  Just my thoughts 
> on
> the subject.
> 
>   Herb 
>  
> 1963 Fury 2D/HT 6.1 
> 1963 Sport Fury Convertible 361 
> 1970 Challenger RT 440 
> 1999 Durango SLT 5.9 
> 2006 300-C Heritage 5.7 
> 2008 SRT-8 Magnum 6.1 
> St. Louis, MO. 
>  
>  
> -------Original Message------- 
>  
> From: Rich Kinsley 
> Date: 10/4/2008 6:25:17 PM 
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx 
> Subject: RE: 383 Cooling Problems 
>  
>  
> Dennis C. Wrote: 
> > 
> > Thanks, 
> > 
> > I did an extensive Internet search before I posted the problem but if 
> > someone may be making one I'll keep looking. 
> > 
> > I'll also start watching Ebay as suggested by another member. 
> > 
> > Dennis C.



1996 Dodge Ram 3500 Van Conversion
1964 Plymouth Belvedere 318 Auto
1963 Plymouth Sport Fury 383 4-speed
1949 Dodge Pickup 289/C4 soon to be changed
1998 Honda Valkyrie Standard


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