Re: Trans pushbutton units

[Schuyler <schuyler62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Robert, my 64 factory service manual states-

"The following procedures describe the gearshift
control unit adjustments. If the transmission fails to
shift into NEUTRAL when the parking lock is applied,
inspect the parking lock lever travel in the instrument
panel slot and the parking lock cable adjustment
at the transmission before adjusting the control unit."

there is no adjustment for the gearshift cable except at
the transmission end. your adjustment might be a
quarter turn, of the adjusting wheel, off? but you'll
never know which way, or how much till you pull
the pan and look. the gearshift cable moves very little
for each position, so this adjustment needs to be as
dead on as possible. It was the only way I could do it
when I put the engine and trans back in my 62 wagon.

the control unit at the dash very rarely needs adjusting.
but if you are going to mess with it be careful with the
parking lock lever spring! I've had two break on me,
one on its own, the other while I was trying to remove
it.

hope this helps, just my humble opinion of what might
be the problem.

Schuyler

Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
 <http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
FYI - I Do the Decal designs for the Poly head 318 and more! email me  
with your needs -
 <schuyler62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>


On Feb 4, 2007, at 7:35 PM, Paul Lennemann wrote:

> This unit is an extra from a parts car.  I wouln't want to try to  
> do it
> too many times as I think the metal would fatigue.  But you don't have
> to move it too far to free up the cable.
>
> Paul L.
> '63 Sport Fury
> 440/727
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-lennemann63.html
>
> Robert Lane wrote:
> > Hey Paul, thanks for braving the cold for us! No such worries over  
> > here;
> >
> > global warming's keeping the freezing temps at bay for us!
> > So I guess you managed to pry open the crimped connection at some  
> > stage.
> > Do
> > you think it would close back up ok if you need to use the unit at  
> > some
> > stage in the future? Like you mentioned earlier, I'm a bit  
> > sceptical as
> > to
> > how 'workable' the brackets is....
> >
> > Robert
> > 63 Polara 500
> > England
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Lennemann" <pjlenn@xxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 7:51 PM
> > Subject: RE: Trans pushbutton units
> >
> >
> > > I took a look at your pictures and then at my push button unit  
> > > and there
> > > really isn't any more to see than with the pictues you've posted.  I
> > > have both of my cables removed, the park cable by opening up the  
> > > clamp,
> > > the shift cable by removing the bracket the cable is attached to.
> > >
> > > Paul L.
> > > '63 Sport Fury
> > > 440/727
> > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-lennemann63.html
> > >
> > > Robert Lane wrote:
> > > > Hi Paul, thanks for the reply.
> > > >
> > > > Our unit has also needed more pressure to depress the buttons  
> > > > than I
> > > > thought
> > > > it should. I've always dreaded the thought of using 1st, 2nd, &  
> > > > drive on
> > > > the
> > > > 1/4 - wondering how well it would cope when it's really needed!
> > > > Apart from the pressure required to change gear, it didn't  
> > > > really play
> > > > up
> > > > until we got the engine & box back in the car, after the rebuild  
> > > > (last
> > > > Sept). That's why I thought it might be more to do with  
> > > > adjustment down
> > > > at
> > > > the trans end.
> > > > We haven't managed/attempted to remove the cables yet. When we  
> > > > saw the
> > > > brackets had been bent over to retain the cables, we thought it  
> > > > was a
> > > > previous-owner-bodge. One cable has the 'P' clip (like a hood  
> > > > pin, or
> > > > hairpin) but the other has no clip. The spindle that it sits on  
> > > > has had
> > > > its
> > > > end flattened to stop the cable coming off. I'm sure it could be  
> > > > filed
> > > > tho
> > > > to remove the cable end. Any idea what should be holding the  
> > > > cable on?
> > > > Another P clip?
> > > > We should be able to do something with the brackets too, so will  
> > > > attend
> > > > to
> > > > that next time.
> > > > These are a couple of pics taken when the unit was hanging from the
> > > > dash.
> > > > You can just about see the cable ends & the brackets bent over.
> > > > http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rob426uk/album?.dir=/ 
> > > > b785scd&.src=ph&.tok=phx4.OGBSPWSf43B
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Paul, when you had your unit removed, can you remember if, when you
> > > > pressed
> > > > the pushbutton levers, did they stay latched in when pressed? I  
> > > > don't
> > > > remember any of our levers staying in; they all just sprang  
> > > > back. Just
> > > > trying to get an idea what to look for to identify whether there is
> > > > anything
> > > > wrong with our unit, or whether it's more cable/trans.
> > > >
> > > > Best Regards
> > > >
> > > > Robert
> > > > 63 Polara 500
> > > > England
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Paul Lennemann" <pjlenn@xxxxxxxxx>
> > > > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 2:40 PM
> > > > Subject: RE: Trans pushbutton units
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Robert, How did the unit work before the rebuild?  What happens  
> > > > > if you
> > > > > disconnect the cable by removing the small retaining clip,  
> > > > > "hairpin"
> > > > > and
> > > > > operate the unit free of the cable?  When I bought mine it had  
> > > > > similar
> > > > > problems, when you pushed drive the previously depressed button
> > > > > wouldn't
> > > > > always pop out.  I used some penetrating oil and compressed air to
> > > > > remove accumulated lint, dust, etc. and get it lubed up again.   
> > > > > This
> > > > > cured the problem.  Mine still takes more pressure than I think it
> > > > > should to get the buttons depressed but at least beyond that it is
> > > > > working correctly.
> > > > >
> > > > > Paul L.
> > > > > '63 Sport Fury
> > > > > 440/727
> > >
> > >
> > > ----
> > > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one  
> > > person --
> > > directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> > > negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> > > recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> > > protect
> > > your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the  
> > > content
> > > signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> > >
> > > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
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> > > 03/02/2007 15:31
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person  
> -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and  
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the  
> intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This  
> practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail  
> and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
>
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.