Nope, checked the horse, not dead yet. I did not know about the kits you're talking about Bob and will look into them. This forum is most helpful and appreciated. /Butch/ Ferndale, WA -----Original Message----- From: Bob Fortson [mailto:bobt1885@xxxxxxxxx] Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 3:40 PM To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: conversions Dennis Say Butch...Not to beat a dead horse, but you do know that there are also kits that use parts by number and year (1976 Cordoba, etc,) that allow purchase of brand new stuff from your local supplier (NAPA ?) and are all Mopar based. I have several links to places (Scarebird) that sell an adapter that uses all Mopar rotors,disc pads, etc.. I usedf them and am pleased with the ability to stop my 63 Fury. Bob Fortson --- Willard Edison <waedison1@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > Don, thank you for this. I started on this forum with the idea that > I'd buy complete aftermarket kits for different resto projects on my > car. The more I've read on the forum, the less certain I am that that > is the 'best' > way to go. And I do want my work on this car to be a reflection that I > did the very best I could. > > I think I can tell you though why some of us head in the direction of > aftermarket kits. First, we don't know what oem parts are better than > aftermarket. In 1964, my new Plymouth Sport Fury actually caught on > fire under the dash on two occasions and the alternator went bad at > least 3 times. All under warranty thank goodness. The dealer never did > figure out what was causing it, just kept changing wiring harnesses > and parts until it quit. Same with the back up light switches, failed > repeatedly until I just gave up. Water pump, timing gear, Rod journal > bearings gone at 40,000 miles, heads the same, although I changed > filter and oil probably every 2000 miles. > (could have been that we towed our race car with the Sport Fury, then > ran it in pure stock all the time). > > The other thing is marketing. I'm not a guy who knows all things about > all Mopars. Most of what I know has to do with the same kind of car > I'm restoring, and not a whole lot about it. I would not even have > successfully restored the heater in this car without the continued > assistance of Kevin Merkley. So, when I talk to an aftermarket vendor > who is selling what he says is a bolt-up conversion kit (manual to > power brakes), I'm tempted, because I don't see anyone marketing > conversion kits using nos or restored parts. What I see coming across > on the forum is that I need to get to one or more salvage yards to get > bits and pieces, most of which I'm not close to and if I was, I > wouldn't know what I was looking at or if it is usable. > > None of this is a criticism of your note, just an attempt to explain > why these afermarket kits are tempting to someone like me. What I've > been doing is cataloging all the notes I see coming across the forum > in folders, so that when I get that part of my resto, I can refer to > all the great knowledge presented and at least ask good questions. > > Thanks, and I hope you all are having a great Christmas. /Butch/ > Ferndale, WA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Don Dulmage [mailto:big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx] > Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 6:36 AM > To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx > Subject: conversions Dennis > > > > I guess I am a hard headed fellow. Might be my heritage . When factory > parts are available that work perfectly i lose it when I see brand > "schmuck stoff" > going where factory parts would go perfectly . Then i see my friends > buy that stuff and it doesnt work right and i have helped a few out to > get it at least working. When they told me what they paid for the > stufff. I went ballistic . Probably that is because I have a real real > strong distaste for the "If I pay more it must be better" idea. Real > real strong distaste would actually be an understatement by the way. > I learned the hard way that the right parts always work and expensive > stuff is often just expensive and usually a big disappointment. My and > Wager shops are filled with stuff we tried that didnt measure up. Like > for instance three sets of Rockers, all different, all junk. Often we > have to lend others our stock based stuff so they can finish at the > track or when we experiment find what we had before worked best. > Sometimes it was cheaper too. more often than not. Four door B bodies > are a dime a dozen and almost any from the late sixties/early > seventies came with discs. The replacement caliphers and pads are > easly bought, sometimes for almost peanuts in rebult condition for > caliphers (26 bucks here). Mopar masters are used on many race cars > and yet we find kits with Gm cylinders for ours. Yeah it ticks me off. > Still I am only one guy > and others may love spending money regardless of the results. Reminds > me of G Wagers last race out this year. He was running the > 426 from 400 engine > built for between 3000 and 4000 . He meets a couple of guys running an > indy headed mega buck strocker set up on one of our vintage (62to > 65)automobiles. > They had more money in carbs than we have in the engine and were > changing them at almost everypass to get better times. Both their car > and his ran the same times almost exactly. Them with 511 cubes and > multi $$$$$ and him with say for arguements sake $4000 and a 15 or 16 > year old homebuilt Mirada racecar with 425.9 cu inches. We see this > all the time and it bothers me when people spend their hardearned > money on Mopars and dont get back what they should or expected. Now it > doesnt bother me if Chevy or Blue oval guys spend a 1/2 a million. and > get zip. That joys me but my own Mopar guys deserve better i think. > Probably the more of this I see the more I lean the other way and it > is possible maybe sometimes a bit too much. It is hard to be cute and > perfect at the same time you know. Still I would defend anyones right > to have what they want in their car. I just wish the folks who sold > them that stuff would help them get it working. > Often they call here as last > resort. Even other shops engines costing double or triple ours that > wont start, dont go, wouldnt pull the skin of a grape and want to know > if Don will help them out. (last one was a 340. my quote was $1850 > plus taxes , he told me he paid $7000+ at another shop (basically > stock 340 mild cam and TRW pistons) and engine would not run at all. > They did not care and would not help. (Santa didnt either BTW;>( ) It > Depends . > If they went elsewhere > because my quote was too low they can pound salt i guess. If they were > innocently led down the garden path that is a different deal. Last > brake deal I saw was almost $1500 and worked like crap till we changed > a couple of > major components to Mopar ones. Seems some of the > folks selling these dont > seem understand Pascals Law of Fluid Dynamics.Some kits are good too > so i dont want to lump them all together. i just dont understand why > one would buy aftermarket when stock is available and works perfect. > It is just the way i think i guess. Have watched four racing buddies > go of the end of the track with defective aftermarket disc brakes. In > fact Wager has purchased one of the cars, an RED and is fixing it now. > It as Airhearts which we were led to believe were the best. this car > has had two off track experiences both brake related and none related > to hyrdaulics. I look at the fancy smancy hi dollar set up and think a > set of stock caliphers and a good matching master would probably last > 30,000 miles while these wonderful pieces of crap wont go 30. See > where I am coming from?That is the best i can explain it. > Enuf already! Merry Christmas. > Don > Author of > Return to Deutschland (True Adventure) Old Reliable (Mopar) > http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises > http://seniordragster.bravehost.com/index.html > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > === message truncated === __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 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