Re: reground cams

[Skwerl <serle-skwerl@xxxxxxx>]

Thanks for the confidence , I  was told by
a neighbour ( chev man ) that a reground cam
put too much strain / wear on the valve train.

Serle
B.C.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Dulmage" <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@>
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 6:41 AM
Subject: reground cams


> I use a lot of reground cams , I have no trouble with them.
> You concerns about how they are made are what mostask so i will try to 
> explain. All cams are maf de the same way , new or reground. They all 
> start with a bigger core. the lobe can never be higher that the cam 
> bearing circumference t so the start withthat and grind down. Cams wi ork 
> on the subtraction princible. Whatever the difference between the highest 
> point and the lowest point or base circle determines the lift (after 
> figuring in rocker ratio for valve lift of course) Cam is a fairly mild 
> performance grind. Should be fine. could probably stand more but it 
> depends what you want.
> curently all cam cores for every company are made by only two companies. 
> The quality os not there unfortunatley and flat tappet cam failures are at 
> an all time high. Some oiis dur e to oil and some lifters as well but the 
> materials and hardenig dont seem to be up to snuff. My reasoning is a cam 
> core that has ben run for say 100,000 miles with no problems it probably 
> wear hardened much deeper that the current cores which seem to get little 
> more than a candle warming and a cool dip.  I have lost one reground cam 
> in 35 plus years of enf gine work but only one. Modern cams especially 
> from one particularly well know manufacturer sem to be ade of cheese and 
> warranty is non existant. I prefer to use a reground core for my own 
> projects . My 63 has one , the 400 cheapie has one, the senior dragster 
> has one and some other very successful projectsas well. the finished 
> project or cam is about the same as it would be if made from a new core in 
> most but the extreme cases . If the n reason they are
> Now How to ruin a  new cam 101.(aka "what not to do")
> If you want to ruin a cam, any flat tappet cam  new or reground. remove 
> the plugs and roll the engine over till you have oil pressure on the gauge 
> before you fire it. That will usually take care of most cams and they 
> willl be little more then an expensive broomstick by then.
> Let the engine idle as soon as it is started . This is a crap shoot. 50% 
> of the time it will wipe a lobe because there is no or little oil being 
> splashed up from the crankshaft to drench the lobes in oil as the lifters 
> and the cam lobs get to know each other.
> Anything that delays starting  .like no fuel in the carb or improper 
> timing setting (like 180 degrees out) or wiring not complete   delays the 
> fire up. Most cams that fail are worn out ON THE STARTER>! Before the 
> engine ever lights off.
> Don
> Author of
> Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
> Old Reliable (Mopar)
> http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
> http://seniordragster.bravehost.com/index.html
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ----
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>
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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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