RE: idiot responds with more questions

[ntolerance <ntolerance@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

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The copper on the back side is a good idea as it dissipates heat and 
reduces the chance of warping. You probably will see a slight difference 
in the weld area. Can you see the difference on any holes where the gas 
was used? You probably havent affected the strenght of the weld if when 
ground flat there are no holes or pocked areas.(assuming good 
penetration) You will probably need a light coat of filler (bondo) any 
way on the holes so if its just cosmetic, it should matter.

WElding sheet metal is tough, if you havent done much before. Two words, 
Time and Patience, you need plenty of both to weld body metal.

Got an old piece of body steel laying about? Say a fender thats junk? 
Shoot some holes in it and practice. Play with the welder settings. Make 
your mistakes on the scrap, then when you are proficent, move back to 
the car.

Does your welder have infinite voltage control? Meaning there are no 
detents on your voltage dial? IF not and you have detents, you could run 
into problems as you may not have that "perfect" voltage. This is where 
the practice on the scrap is helpful. (wire speed is USUALLY infinite 
controlled, if its not, get a new welder :) )

Doc.
Robert neal zimmerman wrote:
> 
> well the welds splattered pretty bad, thats what caught my eye.
>   using a 75/25 argon/ CO2 mix.
>   I am baCKING THE HOLES WITH COPPER while welding 
>    when they wee ground flat they appear pretty solid, I mean u can see
>    where the weld is, its not completely invisible when ground flat.
>    should u be able to see a ghost image or should it just be completely
>    invisible if I was doing them right.
>    man I think these are harder than straight welding.
>    neal ZimmermaN, EUGENE OREGON
> 
> -- 
> http://www.fastmail.fm - A fast, anti-spam email service.
> 

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