383 no guts

[Don Dulmage <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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A couple of problems with the 383. We have done several recently (past couple of years.) 
First problem is pistons. The two barrel pistons are low compression   and with factory tolerances compression ratrio would be in the 8 to 8.5 to 1 area. 
Relacement pistons from all companies are only 9 to 1s  which with factory machining tolerances will still only net  just under 9 to 1 comp ratios. (high 8s) 
This is one big reason why  these engines often seem to have less when rebuilt then before even..
Comp ratio is a big factor in bottom end grunt. 
The only company i am aware of making over 9 to 1 to 1 pistons for these engines is federal (Sealed power TRW etc)  (L2315F)
These are forged replacements with weights and demensions as original but even these with out a good blueprint will only yield 9.84 to 1.
HOWEVER. With a careful choice of cams you can wake  a low compression engine up. You need a dual pattern cam that closes the intake valve early  but with a normal exhaust pattern. 
Some of the milder  comp cam extreme  energy hydraulics work well in this application. ie  268 ex e hyd.
Also a BIg factor is  your distributor curve. to get better bottom end the curve needs to be shorter and wquicker so you start of with more  advance at idle and low speed. 
to see  advance the idle advance manually to say 8 to 10 degrees. 
See if the motors bottom end improves (but dont run it up high , just see if it  has a bit more guts) If it does then do a milder version of the igntion mod in my book in the Ignition chapter. This will give you more bottom end but total advance will be the same  when you have completed the mod. 
Too see if you have the first  problem  mentioned with not enough comnpression ratio take a compresssion test  and tell me the results. (One one cylinder would be enough to know. )
It should be 135 PSI or better for a good  street engine. For really hot about 175 and for race 185 to 225 PSi
If it is around 90 to 110 then  a differerent cam (or  the good pistons)will be required. 
Also  a converter can help. 
We use the 175k MP one always with  383s as a minimum even though the book might scare one into believing that is an almost race converter it isnt. it does help these smaller big blocks quite a bit. 
Carb problems ? possible but I dont think so. borrow a good working carb from a friend for a hour and see would be my suggestion. Doesnt have to be a mopar . All gas engines require the same  mixture strength more or less.
Electronic ingition  by the way will not and one millionth of a hp to the mtor but will make it more reliable and it will stay in tune because tthere are no points to wear which causes the timing and dwell to constantly change from ideal settings. 
Hope some of this helps
Don  
Author of
Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
Old Reliable (Mopar)
http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
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