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You can probably tell whether or not the motor is bound up by simply removing the 6" dia inlet hose that connects the motor to the cowl vent duct and sticking a long skinny screwdriver carefully thru the fixed vanes on the motor housing and using it to spin the blower wheel. If it exhibits any hint of coasting it is probably ok. If it appears to be stiff turning it needs to come out and be looked at. To fining removing remove screw from motor ground lead at cowl bracket, remove sky-hook bracket nut, rotate top of blower assembly reaward in car then slide assembly right in car to get it loose. Disconnect positive lead bullet connecter which will become visible as you remove blower from case. The blower looks like one of Donald Campbell's jet engines out of Bluebird or something similar, definitely a novel blower assembly. Motors appear on E- bay from time to time.
From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx> Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Heater Blower Resistor? Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 08:37:38 -0400
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how easy is it to get to? do i have to remove it to check for drag?
On May 14, 2005, at 10:48 PM, Gary Wilson wrote:
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Did you make sure the motor was good. If it has to much drag it will cause blown fuses.
MOPAR413 (Gary) 64 Polora 500
From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx> Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Heater Blower Resistor? Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 18:18:29 -0400
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i checked continuity on this switch. the center terminal does ground to the case. \ the other two terminals do not show continuity to ground.
so this should be the culprit???????
On May 13, 2005, at 8:47 PM, Dave Krugler wrote:
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I suppose the blower speed switch could also be shorted to ground due to internal overheat and failure. If you have access to a volt/ ohm meter or even a test light you could check that fairly easily. There should be no continuity between any terminal on the back of the blower speed switch and ground. If you connect 1 side of a 12volt lamp to battery voltage in the car and remove the wir harness plug from back of the blower speed switch while still mounted in the instrument panel you could touch the other lead of the test light to one terminal at a time and see if the bulb lights. If it does and you aren't otherwise touching ground the switch is shorted internally to ground.
From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx> Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Heater Blower Resistor? Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 14:48:40 -0400
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Hi Dave,
Thanks, funny thing is switch runs blower blower "slowest" on the HIGH setting (of the switch) and speeds up on low setting of the switch. if you try to go to the off position on the switch, see ya, the fuse blows.
Yet now all positions seem to blow the fuse, im wondering if the heater control switch is the actual culprit?
thanks again,
The usual thing that fail these is either high current load from a bound up or shorted blower motor or locked rotor (motor locked up by debris/bearing failure or whatever) which not only increases the current draw but does not blow any cooling air across the resistor coils. If it is possible for an overheated resistor coil to sag onto the metal case of the heater and make a circuit that could cause fuses to blow.
From: Derrick Brown <derrickb@xxxxxxx> Reply-To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx Subject: Heater Blower Resistor? Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 09:18:43 -0400
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hi,
has anyone ever had one of these go bad?
i think it may be a source of blowing fuses to the heater blower as I increase the speed selector on the fan switch.
if so, does anyone have one they know is good that they would sell?
contact me offlist if you have one to sell.
thanks
Derrick derrickb@xxxxxxx '63 Sport Fury
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