RE: Tuning issues

[tom hecht <baddd65@xxxxxxxxx>]

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I'll try that, thanks Tom.
Jeff
tom hecht wrote:
> 
> i suppose if the carb is not sealing, it may .
> 
> you can just plug the vacuum advance to see if
> that is involved, 
> 
> but the screws should kill the motor
> when they are in, if that isn't happening, i would start with the carb.
> 
> you can look down the barrels, while on the car, and see if the front
> butterflies have the same gap as the rear butterflies.
> and adjust them without removing the carb, but it
> is more acurate to pull the carb.
> 
> ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> 
> Can any of this be due to the 2" spacer I had to add to mate the carb to 
> 
> the intake?
> tom hecht wrote:
> > 
> > my brother has run a 509 cam in his stock 383 for years without a 
> > problem.
> > 
> > lets look at the carb
> > if the air mixture screws are not killing the motor, then check your 
> > butterflies, they should have the same gap, front to rear.
> > there is a little screw on the secondaries to control them, 
> > if you take the carb off, you will see a tiny air slot in each barrel, 
> > you should
> > have the same gap, i believe it is supposed to be .025 (not sure)
> > it is more important that you adjust both front and rear equally.
> > 
> > if you have the butterflies adjusted correctly, the mixture screws will
> > kill the motor.
> > if the response is still bad, you may want to check your acc pump,
> > if it is healthy, adjusted right, then you can add different cams to 
> > make it
> > come on faster.
> > 
> > tom 
> > 65 satellite (i love holleys)
> > 
> > 
> > ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > 
> > I need some suggestions on tuning here guys. I have a 65 413 with 509 
> > Huges cam, stock cast intake with 780 Holley mounted on a 2 inch adapter 
> > 
> > 
> > to make it fit the intake, and headers. The engine runs ok, but it's not 
> > 
> > 
> > as crisp as it should be, especially at idle. It idles fine at 1000 rpm, 
> > 
> > 
> > and will even idle lower than that, but it doesn't feel as smooth as it 
> > should. I have electronic ignition with the chrome box, but still 
> > running the stock points coil. It seems like this is a fuel issue, but 
> > the carb is clean inside and the float levels are adjusted right, I 
> > believe. If you turn the misture screws in, the engine continues to run 
> > for a little while before dying. The engine is a little tired and the 
> > compression readings are a little weak and erractic. I'm thinking it's 
> > running as good as it can with the compression being 100lbs on 4 
> > cylinders, and around 125 on the other 4. I know it's time for a 
> > rebuild, but I'm trying to limp this motor thru till I can get my 426 
> > wedge built. I would welcome any suggestions. Thanks
> > 
> > Jeff Adams
> > 64 Polara
> > 
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> 
> Jeff Adams
> 64 Polara
> 
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Jeff Adams
64 Polara

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



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