Distributor recap long read
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Distributor recap long read
- From: Schuyler Wrobel <schuyler62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 10:59:16 -0800
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Below are some of the posts that helped with my decision to abandon my=20
vacuum advance, except the 4 second flat response just threw me for a=20
loop?
the info on there site is what got me started thinking that maybe I=20
will be better off without the vacuum advance and order one of their=20
stage 2 distributors.
So, I emailed them the specs. of my set up. also posted below, and they=20
say I need a stage one distributor which has the vacuum adv.? I don't=20
want to go
back to the vacuum adv.? also looking at my cam specs on my card and=20
comparing them to the stock cam specs in the FSM they give one # 248=20
degrees
for both intake and exhaust how do I compare that to the 4 #'s for=20
duration on my cam card? the biggest one is 274 degrees. and my overlap=20
is 52 degrees
compared to the stock overlap of 30 degrees. Gary P.'s stroker cam 290=20
degrees, all are on 110 degree lobe centers. Looking at these #'s I'm=20
not so sure
I can call my cam a mild cam? how about a 1/2 cam 3/4 cam? (o: At what=20
point does the cam start affecting the vacuum advance no vacuum advance=20
issue?
I'd like to get a timing tape and see if I can dial in my distributor a=20
little better does any one know what numbers I should go for? Am I the=20
only one
running a Poly with no vacuum advance? My Poly's not perfect but I=20
think it really likes the vacuum advance eliminated. I really pushed it=20
hard on the
weekend trip with the wagon full, my family and our excessive amounts=20
of luggage the Poly pulled us over the grades and passes that normally=20
gave me
a little trouble, an annoying slight ping at part throttle, now there's=20
no ping no backing down... no one is gunna pass me on the hill.
please read the posts and I would like to hear any comments on my Poly=20
engines set up so far, or any one else who has tried something similar.
I feel like I'm working in the dark here so if anyone can shed some=20
light, feel free to jump in any where along the threads.
and to see pics and read more about my car click on the link below my=20
name.
thanks
Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
Hey,
Sorry I've been out of town.
=A0
You need a Stage 1 distributor, FBO Ignition Kit and a intake manifold=20
designed more for your engine profile, your engine is never going to be=20
happy with that single plain.
=A0
Stage 1 Distributor=A0 $125.00
FBO A-688 Ignition Kit...$129.00
=A0
That should get you all dialed in.
-----Original Message-----
Car make- Dodge Dart 440 wagon
Car year- 1962
Weight with driver- 3800 lb.-3900 lb.
Engine size- Poly 318
Approx HP and Tork- not sure was hoping for 300 HP and more in tork
Tranny type - torqueflite 727
Rear end ratio 3.31
Intake Manifold type- Weiand single plane 4bbl
Carburetor- Carter AFB competition series
Fuel Pump Size and type- stock
Current distributor..- Mopar electronic kit with orange box
Current initial timing- 5 to 7 degrees
Current max timing- not sure
Head type and valve size- Poly head bit of port and polish on the=20
exhaust, and shaved 030, with new seals and springs
Cam duration at 50
Lobe Centerline-110 degree
Cam lift- 445
Cam brand- regrind - The cam specifications are:
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 =A0dur.=A0dur.=A0@=A0.050=A0lift... cl=
earance
intake....270=A0206............=A0445...=A0018
exhaust=A0274=A0212............=A0445...=A0018
110 degree LC
Solid lifter type
Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
Well if it is running fine with it set where it should be than it is=20
irrelavnat. Obviously it is ok however since you asked,
If the timing chain was loose and jumped to get the car to run again=20
you would have to advance the dist a whole lot for it to run descent.=20=
=20
Typicaqlly +10 to 16 degrees.
but it sounds like all is new .
With a hi perf cam a modified advance curve is required. I di not know=20
you had a hot cam in it.
i cant find the specs in you email but if it is working good why=20
worry. Just enjoy it
Don
Author of
Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
Old Reliable (Mopar)
http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
Don, thanks for coming out on the limb here. I just got back from a=20
weekend trip with the wagon fully loaded. my wife and our 6 yr. old=20
daughter and the ridiculous
amount of stuff we load up the wagon with for the trip. now, not having=20
a timing tape on the dampner I don't now for sure what my setting=20
really was and after the Mods
what it's soposed to be? so as Joe suggested, I turned it back to 10=20
degrees for the trip and it ran great ! the old 62 wagon pulled just=20
fine up and over the highway hills
and passes with no ping and the feel of some definite restored power.=20
That being said, I am wondering what or why the 318 needs a timing=20
chain if it has to have 17 degrees to run decent with a stock cam.=20
although my cam is also a regrind, the specs of the build on the link=20
below, has my cam specs and some other info if you
could be so gracious to make a comment as anything would be a help, for=20
I'm out here on the limb with not much but a somewhat better running=20
Poly.
thanks Schuyler
Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
coool, I guess I did something right the Poly runs better then ever=20
with the vacuum arm disabled and advance plate and breaker plate as=20
one.
the timing light shows about 17 degrees of advance at Idle not sure=20
what the total is but I drove it around as fast as I could on my test=20
ride
with no ping or detonation just some noticable improved performance now=20
if I just new more about what I'm doing it might run even better.
gonna load up the wagon and take it on the highway for a cruise. man, I=20
think this mod really worked!
Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
After re-reading your last, you may want to check between the 2=20
plates and confirm the brass buttons are in place and one isn't=20
missing or severly worn.=A0 This would cause the plate to move up and=
=20
down as well as circular.=A0 There should be 3 tiny phillips screws on=
=20
the back of the static plate.=A0 These go through the static plate and=
=20
screw into the brass buttons between the static and advance=20
plates.=A0The advance plate rides on these buttons.=A0I just went out an=
d=20
tried to move my advance plate up and down and it's pretty solid.=A0=20
I=A0see what you mean about the gap changing in an electronic=20
distributor, but I don't have one to pull apart and check to see if=20
it has the same brass button setup as the points type.=A0 My shop=20
manual doesn't give names to these "buttons", nor does it even show=20
them in diagrams. Weird....=A0=A0=A0 Joe
Joe, thanks for all the info,... the thing is , my distributor is the=20
mopar Electronic distrib. there's no points just a magnetic pick-up and=20
reluctor the magnetic pickup
is mounted on the vacuum advance plate which is on a swivel so the=20
vacuum arm can advance or rotate the plate and magnetic pick-up. the=20
problem is the movement
changes the gap between the reluctor and pick-up and can be a little=20
wobbly. anyway I read on that 4 seconds flat site that one of the=20
things they do to the none
vacuum advance dist. is weld the plates together so they won't move?=20
now moving down below the breaker plate, the mechanical advance is the=20
same as a points style except,...
apparently the newer distributors are like your invention and have=20
these adjusting screws built in to the advance mechanism!?... seems no=20
matter what you
can think of someone else will have also... (o: anyway if this doesn't=20
work I'll just order one of there's=20=20
<http://www.4secondsflat.com/a688specs.html>
I pulled the distributor and disabled the vacuum advance and JB welded=20
the wobbly vacuum advance plate to the breaker plate. turns out the=20
mechanical advance
is the adjustable type, with a torks screw in each slot mechenism, the=20
springs look pretty light weight and are pink if that means any thing?=20
So my next question is
what should I set my timing at when I stick it back in and put the=20
timing light on it?
thanks again for any help
Schuyler
Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
From: Schuyler Wrobel <schuyler62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: March 18, 2005 11:09:36 PM PST
To: Joeydahook9@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Distributor
Joe,
yes those buttons are in place they just seem to give the plate=20
marginal support not very good when the plate is advanced. I think=20
there is a star shaped spring clip
type thing that helps hold it together also. there's also suposed to=20
be a little clip for the wires to sit in, just a hole in the plate=20
where that clip should be on mine, one of those buttons almost makes=20
it's way in there maybe getting hung up on the edge hard to say? I=20
still can't believe they stoll your idea with the adjustable=20
mechanical advance here's another post from my archive that mentions=20
this.
Don and all,
Well I opened up the distributor in order to modify it as per the "Old
Reliable, Mission Ignition" chapter and low and behold the distributor
has an adjustable mechanical advance. There are two screws that can be
loosened and a plate turned to limit the amount of mechanical advance.
The plate was set for the full travel and I adjusted it to reduce the
amount of travel by about 1/3. Does that sound about right? Also,
there were two fairly small springs in there, but since the weights
looked smaller too I left them alone.
Thoughts?
Regards,
Ken
here's another interesting post from Don D.
Dist mods still need to be done whaether you elect to use the vacuum=20
advance or not.. It can be done either way but the bottom line is you=20
need |(with anything other than a very mild cam) 34 to 36 degrees=20
total advance and you need it earlier with a cam.
A 400hp 440 would be hard to do. A bone stock one with a set of=20
headers would be already there. (375 + 25 HP) and the combo could use=20
a stock distributor as delivered from the factory.
The addition of a good intake (IE Performer RPM) would add easily=20
anothe 25 HP and that would ot affect advance requiremnets. A cam=20
under 500 lift would not normaly have enough Duration to require full=20
distributor mods (but not always) but would benifit from a quicker=20
advance curve.
Anything past that will really wake up with distributor mods.
So why not tell us what cam you have and we could give a better answer.
Any cam other than stock or an RV cam requires more intial without=20
adding more total. This really really wakes up the engine , makes it=20
easier to drive and puts the bottom end back in the engines power=20
range.
I hope this helps. Still the decision is yours. If you are happy with=20
your idle quality, your bottom end performance and general perfomance=20
then that is fine . However if it wants to stall when in gear and you=20
have to keep giving it gas to keep it running and it is a dog out of=20
the hole to about 2000 to2500 RPm then do the dstributor.
Don
Author of
Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
Old Reliable (Mopar)
Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
On Mar 18, 2005, at 10:34 PM, Joeydahook9@xxxxxxx wrote:
--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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