Re: Power Top Issues

[Dave Casey <polara413@xxxxxxxxx>]

Bill -

It may not run *through* the ammeter, but it likely gets powered *at* the ammeter. Remember, on the ammeter both lugs are hot. If your power top was connected on the battery side of the meter, then you'd be less likely to notice the meter moving than if it were on the alternator side of the meter. If I remember right, this is how my '65 was wired for both the power top and the power windows.

So to summarize, the ammeter will have a Red battery wire from the bulkhead connector and a Black wire that runs off to power most things (ignition switch, light switch, etc).

But for factory power top/windows/locks, there will be additional Red wires on the Red side of the ammeter which run to the circuit breaker(s), which are behind the driver's kick panel on my '65.

Dave Casey

On Sat, Aug 31, 2024 at 9:21 PM Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I don't remember disconnecting anything but the red & black wires from the back of the cluster. I don't think my top power runs through the ammeter as it doesn't show a draw when running the top. Im gonna pull it apart again to look as im unfortunately getting good at pulling the cluster.l

On Mon, Aug 26, 2024, 9:12 PM Doug J <63sprtfury@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

You can pull the pins at the top of the cylinders and lift the top by hand.  Standing in the center of the rear seat area is the easiest in my experience.

Doug

63 Sport Fury ragtop

On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 1:28 PM Dave Casey <polara413@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Bill -

Did you disconnect the leads from the ammeter when you had the cluster out? The power top likely has its own dedicated power feed from the ammeter. If that wire escaped your attention while you were putting it back together, that would explain the lack of power.

There is also probably a self-resetting circuit breaker behind the driver's side kick panel, but my bet is that it got left disconnected from the ammeter when you had it apart.

Dave Casey

On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 6:58 AM Bill M <y1topbanana73@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I had my power top suddenly stop working after pulling the cluster to fix a broken heater switch & install an electronic regulator. Fuses in the block are not blown. Can anyone steer me to another "hidden" fuse or circuit breaker (wiring diagram shows one) somewhere? Or give some advice on what else to check and where it is?

I confirmed that the switch has continuity and I have no power to the switch yesterday.

And can I put the top up by hand in the mean time? Or will it damage something? Can't find this answer anywhere, including the FSM. 

Top is down right now, but with the weather cooling off it's going to obviously severely limit amount of time I can drive coming up

Thanks in advance 

Bill M

65 Coronet 500 'vert

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