Mine's an aluminum head with 77 cc chambers. Did just order the Harland Sharp 1.5 rockers. The rule of thumb is that my aluminium head 11-1 would be like 10-1 in cast iron. However, Engine Masters didn't show much power difference in the two metals at identical compression ratio.
Akron Don
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message -------- From: Jim Jablonski <groovinjim@xxxxxxx> Date: 2/18/22 3:34 PM (GMT-05:00) To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: Race Engine Build time.
Oh, also … forgot to answer. In my 511 build with 12:1 compression I am running Mother Mopar’s 452 iron heads, cc’d to 80, and will all sorts of help from Hughes rockers. Jim From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of glpavlovich@xxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2022 13:12
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Race Engine Build time. Hi Jim & Don, Interesting thread on airport fuel and 100LL at about 103 octane. What does the LL stand for, “low lead?” Are you running aluminum heads with your 12 to 1 compression? Thank you! Gary P. Question out of curiosity … does your nostalgia class allow roller cams?
Sent from Jim’s iPhone On Friday, February 18, 2022, 9:32 AM, Donald Gallimore <dongallimore@xxxxxxx> wrote: Engine builder is tossing out 11-1. Depends on what's on the shelf these days given supply chain issues. I always thought a REAL race car ran 12.5 to 1 but I'm not out to beat the heck out of my stuff so if I can get into the 10's comfortably at 11, great. I mistyped, also. 4150 carbs is what we're allowed with Holley based units. Have an AED 850 DP on the shelf but not sure that's enough with 500 cu in and 700 lift cam. Will say the, 95% of the NSS racers run dual quads and I can get all the help I need to make it work -friendly group. Hi Don, It was a typo. My apologies. I meant to say 110 octane might be an overkill for 11:1. I’m at 12:1 and running 100 LL. It depends on the airport but I’ve had really good luck. The first time in I go into the office and introduce myself and ask if it’s OK. Two out of three locations I tried, the guy working there was super nice and ran me through the process of getting fuel. All the places I go are small, rural airports. One has a grass runway! The pumps have all been pretty much the same. These airport manager fellas are analytical types by nature so act interested in the process! The pumps are self-serve, right on the tarmac, and take credit cards. There’s a ground strap that reels out, so just to show I’m down with their rules, I reel it out and clamp it to the trailer hitch of my truck. I bought a 14 gallon boat fuel can that lays horizontally in the bed of my truck and it works perfectly. Here’s a link to an internet site I found to locate small airports. You may know where yours is but this site will show if and what fuel services are available at each. On Thursday, February 17, 2022, 11:44 PM, dongallimore <dongallimore@xxxxxxx> wrote: I heard airport fuel was tough to buy. Do you need a good friend to obtain it? Not sure I understand why 11.0 would be an overkill. Care to expand? Did I miss an important point in your narrative? I'm not really thrilled with the dual quad. There's some pretty good 1150 based single 4bbls. Just that's what the class would prefer you to run. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- Date: 2/17/22 9:42 AM (GMT-05:00) Subject: RE: Race Engine Build time. Hi Don, Been down a similar road and here are a few things to ponder: - Race gas is quite inconsistent from one brand to another. If you want consistency, stick with one source. If you run Sunoco 110 on Wednesday and Torco 110 on Saturday, you will see different results
- You might find 11:1 is overkill. I run 100 LL from the local airport. It’s actually about 103 octane, very consistent, and much, much cheaper. If you can get access to a portable knock sensor you can setup your timing to be efficient and safe. Our Mopar motors (like most motors) are what’s known as knock-limited. This means your timing can only be advanced to a few degrees before knock and not to MBT timing
- I also went with the CH-28 dual quad with Eddys as I wanted the nostalgia look, and it certainly yields the oohs and ahhs, but in retrospect I regret it from a competition standpoint. Dialing in the carbs for weather and track conditions is an order of magnitude times easier with a purpose-built, single four barrel from someone like AED
Have fun! Jim I've finally decided I'm using race fuel. Extra $300 a year. Not confident that pump gas can be consistent run to run and week to week. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- Date: 2/16/22 9:04 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: Race Engine Build time. You basically have what I am running. Similar internals. 425 cu in. Same carbs ons a crossram. I stayed with 10 to 1 compression ratio to tolerate using pump gas. It still diesels so I shut it off with the 727 in gear. Bent a custom push rod once. I add a few gallons of VP 109 octane. It seems to like that. Enjoy, but it aint cheap. DCH -----Original Message-----
From: dongallimore <dongallimore@xxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wed, Feb 16, 2022 5:45 pm
Subject: Race Engine Build time.
I've embarked on building a 600 HP+ ENGINE for my Belvedere. I'm not out to set low ET, just want a reliable unit capable of going into the 10's in a sub-3500# '65 Belvedere. 600 - 625 HP to allow me to dip into 10's. Been mid-30's with 525 HP +/_ and a bit more weight. So far, we've ordered the Trick Flow 240 heads (non-Max Wedge ports), have an in-Line Edelbrock CH-28 Dual Quad intake with 600 cfm carbs complete with linkage and fuel lines, 440 block. Ordered a high dollar Milodon pan, windage tray and external oil system. Suspension is in - all Calvert. Pulling back seat in A-990 fashion. Next step is 4.25 stroker with likely 11 - 1 compression - time will tell - race gas motor. Billet main caps. Solid Roller, about .700 lift, with Harland Sharp rockers and stafts. Anyone with spare parts in thie unpurchased area, I'm interested. --
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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