Re: Mopar garage

[Don Hudson <mopar4me@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

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AMEN!
----- Original Message -----
From: <ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 10:33 AM
Subject: RE: Mopar garage


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I bought a 24x40x10 steel garage kit from 84 lumber in '95 for around
$4400 without doors or concrete and put it up myself in February in
central Ohio. I'd never built a garage before and to do it in winter was
a bitch! Next time I built a 24x30x8 stick-built myslef in fall and that
was a breeze, cost about 7k with concrete. Now I have a 32x48x10 steel
garage that the Amish built about 7 years ago for 11k without concrete.
These are just FYI for prices in central Ohio and may not apply in your
area. Also, I built the first 2 myself, if you have the skills do it
yourself, it's not that hard, just takes time. I try to do everything
myself because I refuse to pay exorbitant prices for anything! When it
rains hard it's pretty loud in a steel garage. I prefer stick-built, but
my current garage was already present when we bought the house. If you
have the room and money to go bigger, DO IT! No matter how much room you
have when it's new, if you're a typical gearhead (packrat), you'll
outgrow it in short order. Can I get an AMEN guys???
Jeff Adams
dge465@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> I need to get a garage at my house so I can get my coronet finished.
> I got prices from 40k-65k(I still haven't got off the floor yet) for a
> simple 28x30 garage.Any way I'm thinking of going with a steel building
> garage and put it up myself.Anybody have any good or bad things to say
> about the steel garages and who to buy from and who to stay away from?
>
> THANKS!
>
>
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> >
> > You will need the trans out to do it but here goes . get a input shaft
> > from the
> > right trans . around 68 to 72 i hink is right. I often just buy a wacked
> > out
> > small block 727 to get these parts cheap but many trans shops will have
> > a couple
> > in thier spare parts as well.
> > You will need a front pump gasket, large sealing ring and a pan gasket.
> > Remove
> > the pan and the valve body. Rundo the kickdown band and remove the strut
> > for it.
> > Remove the front pump bolts from inside the bellhousing. look carefully
> > and on
> > two of the holes in the pump housing that you took the bolts out of you
> > will see
> > a set of 3/8 coarse threads. get a piece of 3/8 chain and two t3/8
> > coarse bolts.
> > put the bolts through each end of the chain  and thread them by hand
> > into these
> > threaded holes. Grasp the chain in the middle and give it a couple of
> > quick
> > jerks, the front pump will come out (it is a poor mans slide hammer but
> > it
> > always works well. )Remove the band from out of the front of the trans,
> > Remove
> > the input shaft and front drum. There are three thrust washers to watch
> > for. A
> > big fibre one on the backside of the pump , another onebetween the front
> > clutch
> > and the rear clutch that is identical and a little one between the input
> > shaft
> > and the out put shaft sittig on a protruding section of the output
> > shaft.
> > Take the drum of the input shaft  and then temove the drum attached to
> > the end
> > of it. (The rear clutch or more properly forward clutch) Undo the
> > circlip and
> > drive the shaft out with a soft brass drift. Intall the new shaft with
> > new cast
> > iron sealing ring and reverse the proceddure. Might be a good time to
> > chack
> > clutches and bands and reseal thecltch pistons since you are right
> > there. Some
> > guys just remove the stuff and get a trans shop to check the parts over
> > and
> > change the seals and that is ok as well.
> > Anyway install it al back together with new seal , don't forget the
> > reinstall
> > the band before putting the pump back in and adjust the band after
> > everything is
> > bolted up, reinstall the valve body with a new filter and Voila yer
> > done!
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
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> >
> > ----
> > Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> > directly
> > to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as
> > well as
> > other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> > Clubhouse
> > public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the
> > total volume
> > of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> >
> > '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> > http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.
> >
> >



Jeff Adams
64 Polara

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



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