{Chrysler 300} Re: 61 300G seat switch, using F book , assume same

["skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx" <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks, John for all the help on this one.  I disassembled the switch--carefully!! There were no obvious broken parts, so I cleaned everything, lubed lightly, and reassembled.  Switch worked fine for all of two minutes, then quit providing power to the solenoids (all of them) Motor runs fine in both directions.  (It looks like someone has been into this switch before me.) I have switched (little pun there) to Plan B:  I found a switch locally in a 61 New Yorker.  Installed same...seat works perfectly. It might be time to send the malfunctioning switch to a professional for rebuilding.  Thanks again.  Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sep 29, 2026 9:34 AM
To: Dennis Cloer <skyhawk@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: 'Bob Meritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>, club chrysler <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Re: 61 300G seat switch, using F book , assume same


hi Dennis , assuming wire side  switch contacts  ok , looks like those pin contacts in handle come  out when you move lever to complete various circuits . I notice the two rivets holding plate on , do what moves the contacts and which ones vs moving handle  must be in there . Maybe someone mechanically  bashed or kicked  the switch handle...    broke cam inside ?!
Maybe try horizontal movement of handle , we know troublemakers from figuring out the logic  ( more in a minute ). Takes  a while , poor data on fsm print . Will mark up , send pix 


 So, looks like every motion requires just two pins , will use colors and pin # in connector , ( which ones do what) .. pin# are in case colors change at    switch connector. Hope  not   , or maybe the only connector  IS back of switch, but drawn as if connector has wires on both sides ( page 67)


so 12 v goes in , to red wire pin 1 
On H motion ( along floor-  either way ) the green gets 12 v , that closes H clutch ( one active moved  contact hits green, pin 2 , selects H clutch ( clicks) . 
Then one other of active pins hits either blue pin 5 or white pin 6 , tells motor which way to spin . 
white becomes a green at motor ; 
blue becomes a black . ( these are the  two field wires , like power window motor) one is cw , one is ccw   
If either one of those is made 12 , by switch, then  relay pulls in turns on armature 12 by red wire at relay 
So how it works , we got it  down   ! 
if on H , but no relay or motor , but H clutch clicks   Green is working ok 
But neither  blue or white is coming alive at switch, -= no relay , no motor 
So contacts marked D ( direction) are not making . That is connector 5 and 6 , on H ---- yet they work on risers .
For completeness , G = H clutch   yellow = rear riser clutch , brown is front  riser . Blue and white are same function as green , just different clutch is in
 

Says mechanical issue in that box around blue and white pins in H = pull rivet pins and look . careful again stuff might fly out , take pix before getting it mixed up . mark handle with sharpie stripe
  

might be fixable with JB weld
I have new thing w JB / when plastic broken , drill .060 hole in through broken plastic pieces  (?usually bakelite in our stuff) use JB but put short wire in the tiny drilled hole like rebar  embed it in JB 
I fixed two 57 Chrysler ign  switches this week with that . Both broken inside by over-tightening nuts holding the wires . Take it REAL easy  on wire connections, they are  not head bolts    


Interested  how you do with this" With how it works"  PS info , Bob can save.  
John G 
   

 



> On Sep 28, 2026, at 6:07 PM, Dennis Cloer  wrote:
> 
> Hi John. Isolated the switch as the problem. Careful (!!) disassembly reveals this. What do you think? Dennis
> 


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