hi , I wanted to correct a false assumption I made ! Bob tells me long rams are open to exhaust gas . Which I had always presumed before this J reset me . Years catching me , I must have had it right when I did the cups . So both things are true , J K cup hole is sealed ( the learning ) FG are not . “ Relearning” counts too ! jkg
Begin forwarded message:
From: Bob Merritt <Bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: January 28, 2026 at 3:15:40 PM EST
To: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Choke question
Long ram choke wells are open to exhaust
and need your choke well cup.
Bob
On 1/28/2026 2:47 PM, John Grady wrote:
More on a related thing; I am (hopefully) still
learning ....I have one half of a J ram on bench ( thank you
Don Cole ) , it had some weld repairs , including someone
welded over (with aluminum ),the hole and bolt holes for choke
pot can,--- and something might have went on in reworking
plenum floor too. J should never overheat or melt plenum floor
, unlike F or G with stuck heat riser, as they totally got rid
of thermal exhaust valves in 63/64 in head pipe as
you know.(They were still learning too, in 62 (like, no rams
for 62, forget all that hassle ) ----as that 60-61 warm up
system had ,er, problems) . Like not working right.
Whatever, J repair was good. J uses constant heat, but
not forced flow,so a lot less heat . And we restrict it by
.25 hole washers (YES!!)
So about the learning----- since late 60's , 55
years now, I thought choke well opened into exhaust
plenum,/ warm up heat. , why the little can (which I
reproduced) and gaskets. I was totally wrong. But guy who
welded it over apparently thought the same thing....gotta
close it.
However,looking at J , that can hole IS totally closed
, even if you left it open nothing comes out! A wall is
cast in under it over exhaust passages and a wall
is cast between it and plenum too . I don't know about
long rams, but probably the same ?
So why the can? And it does not matter if there is a rust
hole in the bottom ? Should work fine with no can at all?
I assume J ram I have is for passenger side head , carb
driver side ---as it has the big vacuum tapping, I
believe goes in back? I often wondered if same R and L
casting fits .(Does it,?never tried flipping it) .
Part of next build , looking for other half, or a pair.
But new information to me after all this time , about
choke heat hole....
fyi, John
Agree; I would ensure that your choke
link/rod is the right length and approximate shape first.
We had gotten an F years ago that didn’t have the
thermostatic chokes- someone had hard wired the chokes to
be wide open all the time.
Not having access to replacement cross ram chokes, I
made rods from fence clips. The left and right carb
rods are slightly different from one another. I simply
tried to match the length and shapes from another car
which you can see here in a side-by-side comparison.
Used a hack saw to create the groove for the clip.
Sheep fence clip from Tractor Supply:
Cutting the clip groove:
Comparison (original in red):
One of the homemade rods by itself, painted:
They give the clips free at tractor supply when you
buy fencing but might sell or just give you a few if it
saves time; just let us know. Or we can mail some.
D&K
Sent from my iPhone
hi just a comment , that adjustment
is supposedly not to vary rod fit , but rather to
center or phase angle of choke “ change rate with
temp . “ That involves how fast the spiral unwinds
vs angle of arm on choke axle
There were warnings in later moper
FSM “ do not adjust , factory set of spiral “
I admit to having done so , chasing
warm up stalls, before I knew that
That warning might have been in 67
dart FSM . it has a very long rod that works at an
angle ( slant six)
if rod is not quite right on ram
bending is way to go . All this sets rate it opens
which in turn sets fast idle
All carter heat spirals are most
likely the same ( mho) but rate is and zero
position at room temp is calibrated at factory .
I have used others by extending rod
using solder and elecrical non insulated barrel
crimp splice or small tubing like brake or copper
Ymmv , just info .
I thing you guys may be onto
something. The rod on the new part looks like it
could be shorter than the original. I adjusted
the spring to take some of the slack (free
travel) off of the spring. Now the butterfly is
closed
Thank you
Jay
Sent from my iPad
Oh, I see that now. So it
would make sense to turn it to the rich
side to close the butterfly? Here is a
picture of the one that I replaced
Jay Williamson
317-223-1379
Hello,
I don’t recall where I ordered
it, but here is the box it came in.
Guess there is a possibility that
the part may not go with the box
though. It matches up perfectly with
the one I took off the car
<image0.jpeg>
Jay Williamson
317-223-1379
There
are normally two ways to
adjust the cold start choke
setting. First, the choke
bimetal spring in the unit
that sits in the manifold
should be adjustable via the
screwdriver slot in the axle
of the spring. Usually there
are markings on the disk for
rich and lean. The second
method is to bend the
linkage rod so that it is
more or less straight to
change it's length. Hope
this helps.
--
Marshall
Larson
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