someone recommended white grease . That stuff is no good , turns to hard junk . Lubriplate was the go to in 50’s , know all about that from another field ( xray equipment) where it jammed many mechanisms . Jams park switch in our wiper motors door locks , power seat clutches, etc Use chassis lube or wheel bearing grease , preferably synthetic, along with 75 W Mobil one synthetic. It gets in where you cannot get grease , and stays there
After a lot of frustration I made a special thing by buying small squeeze bottle only 3-4 oz , then glued window washer clear tubing into outlet ( you can use any small squeezable bottle drill tight hole in cap) , about 6” of the tubing then glue in about 4” of red wand from brake kleen etc into end of tubing I used epoxy first no good ,,weatherstrip adhesive good once set up Best tool I ever made can turn bottle upside down or run tube to bottom totally independent of nozzle pointing , unlike commercial oilers . And the can does not hit in tight places jg
On Aug 11, 2025, at 6:30 PM, Ray Jones <1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
All good points. But first, Spray silicone down each track. Use the straw and saturate the front and rear window tracks of each window. No real effort, just put the window down and spray away. Don't be frugal, spray a lot in each track. Bet it helps, at least some and if not, you've wasted 10 minutes. Ray I'm having a bit of the same issue on my 70 Hurst passenger door window. Driver's side goes up and down fine. Passenger side is 'iffy' at about the halfway point, like it's binding somewhere. Gets very slow at the mid point, and actually stops and gets stuck there when the engine is not running, as just battery voltage isn't enough to overcome the problem. I've taken it apart a couple of times to degrease/re-grease, check for anything bent, etc. Once I take it apart and re-grease and put it back together, it works fine for a while (like maybe a month?) and then gets slower and slower again in that middle area and I'm back where I started. It seems to be a lack of use thing, as the problem comes back quicker if the car just sits in the garage or is driven with the windows up for a long time (summer in TX means the windows are up most of the time for A/C). I've also lubricated the motor, and checked it with my bare hand to see if it's overheating, and that is not the issue, either. Wish it was something obvious that I could find and fix. I'm not about to try altering the tracks physically in any way for fear of making things worse. Any other C-body/Hurst suggestions appreciated. I suspect the power windows on my '64 Imperial need a freshening as they generally go up and down slowly and the rear quarters occasionally require some assistance (I know this isn't necessarily a Letter Car problem but figured the issue/ailment is found on our beloved Letter cars as well potential remedies). The passenger quarter window appeared to completely retire yesterday!
I found some helpful materials on the Club website:
specifically #40 (Ron Klinczar) and #43 (Jamie Hyde).
Bob Merritt also has many outstanding videos on YouTube but I don't recall seeing anything in depth on removal, break down, and installation...I might have missed it?
I appreciate any/all help, including references and recommendations, Club members can offer. Ideally, I'd like windows that go up and down "crisply."
Thanks,
Kurt
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