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I do. I got a wheel cylinder new from NAPA but made in China that had a bad threaded mounting bore. I also got one that had a bad rubber seal in it. James From: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Henry- The China as inferior thing makes no sense to me. We once said that about Japanese goods now they are considered premium. China is the factory floor
for the world who let it happen right, wrong or indifferent. Metric, yes but in many cases made in China wheel and master cylinders are all that is available. I've yet to be presented with a widget made in China demonstrated to be inferior to its alternative.
But I too am often wrong. Does anyone have negative experience with a Chinese made automotive part? danny Plotkin
-----Original Message----- Has anyone who has had their wheel cylinders sleeved, whether it is brass or stainless steel, seen any corrosive reaction (like a stuck piston) between the aluminum piston and the sleeve? Wouldn’t
there be a potential for galvanic corrosion between those dissimilar metals? Drawing experience from the plumbing world, copper water pipe (almost brass) and steel pipe must be isolated or massive corrosion occurs.
Did anyone who has had their wheel cylinders sleeved use a piston other than aluminum?
By the way….i could be wrong, often am, but I recall I read in a previous listserver discussion about brake fluid that Whitepost won’t warranty their work if
you use brake fluid with silicone (DOT 5 or DOT 5.1). I am fighting a brake problem: the brakes really stop the car well but the car wants to toggle left-right-left-right when I brake hard. I have about 1500-2000
miles on the new brake system. I know the wheel cylinders are inferior so I’m contemplating sleeving the wheel cylinders. I bought Raybestos thinking they were American-made but when I opened the box, the wheel cylinders had CHINA cast into them. To add insult
to injury, the rear wheel cylinder bleeders are Metric. I gave up trying to buy superior wheel cylinders.
Henry Mitchell 300C From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International
[mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
I make all those issues go away with sleeved wheel cylinders. I used to use Joe at Sierra who did all my Desoto’s in brass. Since he retired, I have not done any of them,
but Whitepost does them in Stainless I think. Joe thought brass was better as he explained to me that stainless requires a special hone or you get micro burs which can wear the seals, brass micro burs are soft enough
the seal “laps” them down. To me a material that is impervious to the standing water junk is the real solution to this issue. Then the fluid, not matter what, will not affect them. I also think the new replacement cast is not the greatest so “new” ones will not always be the greatest. Old housings sleeved is very good solution. James From:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
On Behalf Of John Grady it seems several here ignore absolute fact that divot forms in bottom of wheel cylinder with glycol in long storage . I will ask all those
in club who have seen the rust divots to say hello ? why you had to buy new ones … Ron this exact failure happened in 5-6 mopars I owned . You know I have about 40 over its been 60 years now I would not drive your cars 200 feet unless you want to end in someones trunk in a panic stop ( and total your car) Discussion is crazy
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