Re: {Chrysler 300} C convert rear window alignment

On Thu, Nov 7, 2024 at 8:08 AM John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

hi , a few comments along with thank you !
the slot at bottom on motor cannot be an adjustment as the three bolts that hold regulator to inner door clamp regulator tight to inner panel ; no adjustment can be made then in and out . It cannot move
rather that slot is to allow clamping the motor end at bottom to stiffen motor attachment to regulator no matter where motor end ends up , —-if not a slot , that bolt would have to be a perfectly located hole in bottom of inner space — -its not .The slot serves no real alignment purpose as that is set by regulator attaching bolts . It is slotted to let you clamp motor in right place against flexing or vibration etc once all this is done . In fact very misleading as it looks like exactly the adjustment that you need.
Present thinking for pass one tilting inward is make shim at top bolt location between inner panel and regulator to move top toward outside of car with bottom bolts snug , tighten top on the shim we make , then tighten others not super tight and then tighten motor slot .
Still trying … need to read and digest links . Bob Merritt also brought up that 58 manual is much improved over for same car 59 may be even better ?
rather sadly for us and important , need to do back first as it impacts front which may be all buttoned up in wrong place . Trim even all on….
never ends…
j

On Nov 7, 2024, at 3:17 AM, henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

Rear window adjustment is actually covered by https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1957-volume-10-9-hardtop-adjustments-windows-locks/

However, it doesn’t mention the adjustment in the diecast “fin” attached to the bottom of the window frame. If I remember correctly, this may be your problem if you can’t tilt the window in or out enough. Be warned - mark it’s position first so you can return it if it doesn’t work out. Otherwise, you may be chasing your tail. Why do I know this???

Henry

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, 7 November 2024 5:38 AM
To: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} C convert rear window alignment

This 1957 film strip produced for Mopar service departments entitled body sealing is indicative of your observation that the 57 car was, shall we say, undercooked.

https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1957-volume-10-3-body-sealing-57-cars/

Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2024 1:23pm
To: "chrysler 300 club" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} C convert rear window alignment
Old painful subject I know .
But getting into truly severe frustration over this .
The the top of the rear vent window wants to land inward into car when it gets to convert rail —- ,on one side inward on other outward(!)

Although a slot on bottom of motor mount tail looks like an obvious adjustment in and out , it cant be , as the regulator has three bolts fastening it hard to sit tight to the inner face of quarter panel inner skin surface , so that body surface sets the angle it comes up out of door , — hard and fast .
I did not reassemble this car but starting to think maybe they had factory shims or spacers in there that I don't know about or were lost by PO .
The fsm is garbage on this — no info

( by the way I found a lot of wiring diagram errors in that C fsm , kind of thrown together imho .Different pages have conflicting wiring , especially around head light switch, and feeding those kick panel 3 circuit breakers ) . Pix of headlight switch is under “switches” (!!!) many pages away , not on wiring diagram . If you wire as shown the cig lighter will come on with headlights ( only )

But if anyone has fought this rear window in and out alignment issue on convert ( probably similar on hdtp ) let us know , to preserve sanity
Top is perfect lands right on pins , roof rail straight , but window trends inward on worst ( pass) side and folds over the weather seal . Fought 57 - 58 hardtops on that before , replacement rubber fir those is not flocked , adds huge problems with drag at end if travel .
The convert one IS flocked! small gains!

The slot at bottom of motor is to deal with mounting tolerances imho not tip angle of glass .

Related, fsm says to get regulator out , run roller to the end , and run out of channel first , then lift out glass .
Well , great !

There is no room at end of channel for roller to escape channel it hits the body structure . So unable to get regulator out ( yet) to add a fabricated shim if we wanted to .
All you hear about 57 bodies is true . absolutely half baked
car is cursed , same one , with 2 weeks + into front regulators, but that is ok now … space between run channels was too tight binding lift motor . Caused by a “ replacement” run U channel too shallow or too thick at bottom of U . Cure is 2 loose pieces of side channel whiskers no U
What should take 2 hours takes 2 weeks . Gets old fast

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