Hi John ,
possibly nothing wrong with your dizzy bushes , at that low miles, easy to measure it per fsm . messing with it may make it overall worse . Cant be “leaning tower” , on main bore? - it would spin in a conical arc , hit all around —-
you could measure runout if bent ( which is more likely at top , that skinny post or in advance parts . Maybe
precision straighten upper skinny part of shaft if bent , easy .
The only way you know max advance is to measure it , methods 2-3 very risky and ill defined , it does not vary car to car , there is a single correct number , all that is worked out when they did curve , especially the max . It is all in by
about 3500 rpm w no vacuum ,,easy to know ,—check it there — then initial setting falls where it does . Can't say anything about it if vacuum snd mechanical are both active ,or set by ping etc . Depends on gas , load on motor etc way more than degrees
.Max degrees very important with 10 :1 and todays gas ; you cannot always hear ping , if you do its a problem
I think someone put cap on not seated right once , (?) tore things up , maybe bent shaft ( or bad cap ) — I am sure you went through all that
I get DO get keeping it original , — love points, no issue , but you do keep original problems , maybe add new ones like widespread junk replacement capacitors from china ( aluminum can, black rubber cone on wire= watch out ) (= intermittent
poor spark, drive you crazy ) Got me twice. Comes and goes , no start etc . Original high quality capacitor from mopar with copper strap was probably perfect when pulled out too .
vs peaceful perfect running ride every time, no vague skip etc etc . No “ what is that” or that flex wire that goes bare and shorts or dropping little screws you can barely see , in sideways . no thanks ; unless truly solid reason, concours
etc
And dual
points ? the best , !!! but cant set right without dwell meter ,,but SO critcal — they move when you tighten the screw
smile …really
john
ps you aware there are two heights of rotor , two heights of cap that match? not sure of year of change but can get crossed .with disaster result Later ones are often tan and taller
On Nov 2, 2024, at 11:50 AM, John Nowosacki <jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Thanks John, for the usual thoughtful analysis and experience.
After 63 years and 80K+ miles, I can't really complain about my original distributor needing a rehab (though my 55 and 57 Chryslers never did), so if I can get the thing fixed with
new bushings/bearing/shaft/whatever, I'll put it back in and not go down the path of any other modifications. I've owned the car since 1998, and been pleased with its performance all this time, so original configuration and changing points every 6 to 8 years
is fine with me. I'm only using this stock single point unit as an interim solution because it was a one wire drop in, allowing me to still enjoy the car while waiting for the repaired original to return to its rightful place, so I won't be converting it
to dual point or electronic anything.
I've always used 3 methods for setting/adjusting my timing, sort of as a confirmation/comparison of all the methods against one another.
1. Good old fashioned timing light and marks under the hood (hopefully the damper hasn't rotated at all over 63 years)
2. Vacuum gauge approach attempting to set for maximum value at idle (compare with timing light)
3. Test drive under load heading up a nearby road with a nice incline that would induce pinging if too much advance for the ethanol-free 91 octane I am able to run down here in TX.
Even at TX highway speeds of around 75 mph, I don't approach 4000 rpm, so I don't think I'm approaching any 'all-in' advance that is 'dangerous'.
The odd part (to me) about my original distributor is that it only makes the rotor hit the side of the cap on three of the studs that are right next to each other in sequence, and
nothing anywhere else under the cap, almost as if the entire shaft is now like a leaning tower of Pisa and not just randomly moving around from a bad bearing/bushing like I would expect. Anyhow, the new cheapo unit comes with a 'lifetime' warranty, and I'll
hopefully not need it for all that many miles so I can have it on hand if/when I need to drop it in to my Hurst, which is still on it's original 54 year old dizzy. ;-)
when looking at non tach drive B block distributors, one really should look at common mopar performance upgrade kits to a stock orange box electronic . or same thing used , from millions of 440 R B blocks Way outperforms any point distributor
, no maintenance and all new parts .
service pieces are in every napa . But generally very reliable . Standard auto parts brand seems good stuff
Quality of an all new MP distributor is not what it was , i got one that ate its bushings — shipped with no lube on them , so —put oil on the bushings . looks offshore made , but does the job . All new bushings and you get an all new shaft
with correct fit — that really matters . New vac can .
By the way , not sure what rebuilding process really is , ( check
out- exactly) as “all that wears” that matters imho is the shaft bushings and so they often need changing , very critical on points ,but less so on electronic pickup . —- which is resistant to gap changes (inherent in the way it works
)
sometimes the main shaft gets worn undersized only in the bushing section , so new bushings wont fix that . been there . Cant use undersize bush as you cant get unworn part of shaft through it (where not reduced) Longer or slightly relocated
bushes may work ( did that ) but setup then is not at 100% long term . Looking back , a lot of work , not worth it .
Changing points , rotor and capacitor is not “ rebuilding” if shaft is shot where bushings are . But cleaning and lubing advance helps . vacuum diaphragm fails a lot too , check with mity vac
= why on this , non tach RB app , a new MP one and electronic makes sense
Keeps it mopar . Good for 100 k no touch or worry Once you to go aftermarket, lots of hype , thin wallet , lots of unique parts and problems
.
forget it ,
Related , converting to modern electronic tach lets you use kit on FGH , stock tach is a dancing inaccurate joke ( there - I said it!)
wrong advance curve likely too with aftermarket .
Don't touch advance without accurate light , unless you want hole in piston .Cant “ tweak” “by ear “ without data where you are . ? 32 degrees max mechanical all in ?
hope this helps ,
jg
On Nov 2, 2024, at 8:32 AM, RICK AND DEBBIE CLAPHAM <rixpac@xxxxxxx> wrote:
I will look in my Sun machine, maybe have a spare IBS 4011, I did recently find a Rebuilt K distributor.
Not sure you got my other email.
I had great luck with joes distributor in Ohio. Specialized in mopar stuff. He’s done a F one, and a 58 golden commando one for me.
<image0.png>
Jarrod Hermann
So, I went to Rock Auto just for kicks, and they had a single point "standard performance" distributor (out of stock on D14 dual point "performance" unit recommended for 'U' code 440 engine from 1970), which came with points, condenser,
cap and rotor installed and ready to drop into the engine, all for $100. I ordered it and it came yesterday. I installed it in my G, and the car started right up, so I adjusted the timing a bit and took it for a test drive. There was no noise coming from
inside the cap like there is on my original that has the rotor slicing its way through 3 of the plug wire studs. There was no 'skipping' in the 55-65 mph range like there was with the original, either. There was also no pinging at all, so I dialed in a bit
more advance, since I bet the advance curve is less aggressive on the single point unit than on the IBS-4011 normally used with the camshaft of a G. I can totally live with this level of performance (and lack of tachometer functionality) until I can find
a place that can rebuild/repair my original unit. With that being said, does anyone know someone who rebuilds/restores distributors?
I found a listing in Hemmings for a guy named Jim from Special-Interest-Autos.com who advertises all kinds of tuneup parts available for sale, and the ad also states that he does 'restorations' of distributors. His listing is under
Chrysler/Mopar parts for sale, as well as under Dodge parts for sale. Apparently he is from Rockwall, TX, which is a bit over 2 hours away from my location. I've traded voice mails with Jim, but have not spoken with him 'live' yet to discuss in detail my
particular distributor and his ability to find parts to refurbish it (or what the cost would be).
Any other advice/recommendations of repair folk for Autolite distributors would be appreciated.
Thanks,
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