A couple of comments:I am running 30° total advance on my 300F. 5° on the crank and 25° in the distributor. My engine definitely likes that number.Be sure to check the TDC mark on the crank pulley with a Piston Stop Tool. I found my pulley mark was 5° retarded ( probably due to rotation of the rubber in the balancer over 60 years).Dyke Ridgley--On Saturday, November 2, 2024 at 8:57:31 AM UTC-5 jkg wrote:when looking at non tach drive B block distributors, one really should look at common mopar performance upgrade kits to a stock orange box electronic . or same thing used , from millions of 440 R B blocks Way outperforms any point distributor , no maintenance and all new parts .service pieces are in every napa . But generally very reliable . Standard auto parts brand seems good stuffQuality of an all new MP distributor is not what it was , i got one that ate its bushings — shipped with no lube on them , so —put oil on the bushings . looks offshore made , but does the job . All new bushings and you get an all new shaft with correct fit — that really matters . New vac can .By the way , not sure what rebuilding process really is , ( checkout- exactly) as “all that wears” that matters imho is the shaft bushings and so they often need changing , very critical on points ,but less so on electronic pickup . —- which is resistant to gap changes (inherent in the way it works )sometimes the main shaft gets worn undersized only in the bushing section , so new bushings wont fix that . been there . Cant use undersize bush as you cant get unworn part of shaft through it (where not reduced) Longer or slightly relocated bushes may work ( did that ) but setup then is not at 100% long term . Looking back , a lot of work , not worth it .Changing points , rotor and capacitor is not “ rebuilding” if shaft is shot where bushings are . But cleaning and lubing advance helps . vacuum diaphragm fails a lot too , check with mity vac= why on this , non tach RB app , a new MP one and electronic makes senseKeeps it mopar . Good for 100 k no touch or worry Once you to go aftermarket, lots of hype , thin wallet , lots of unique parts and problems.forget it ,Related , converting to modern electronic tach lets you use kit on FGH , stock tach is a dancing inaccurate joke ( there - I said it!)wrong advance curve likely too with aftermarket .Don't touch advance without accurate light , unless you want hole in piston .Cant “ tweak” “by ear “ without data where you are . ? 32 degrees max mechanical all in ?hope this helps ,jgOn Nov 2, 2024, at 8:32 AM, RICK AND DEBBIE CLAPHAM <rix...@xxxxxxx> wrote:I will look in my Sun machine, maybe have a spare IBS 4011, I did recently find a Rebuilt K distributor.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android
From: chrysler-300-cl...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-cl...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of Jarrod Hermann <jarrod...@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, November 1, 2024 9:14:07 AM
To: John Nowosacki <jsnow...@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Club <chrysler-300-cl...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Distributor updateNot sure you got my other email.
I had great luck with joes distributor in Ohio. Specialized in mopar stuff. He’s done a F one, and a 58 golden commando one for me.
--<image0.png>
Jarrod Hermann
On Nov 1, 2024, at 11:03 AM, John Nowosacki <jsnow...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
--So, I went to Rock Auto just for kicks, and they had a single point "standard performance" distributor (out of stock on D14 dual point "performance" unit recommended for 'U' code 440 engine from 1970), which came with points, condenser, cap and rotor installed and ready to drop into the engine, all for $100. I ordered it and it came yesterday. I installed it in my G, and the car started right up, so I adjusted the timing a bit and took it for a test drive. There was no noise coming from inside the cap like there is on my original that has the rotor slicing its way through 3 of the plug wire studs. There was no 'skipping' in the 55-65 mph range like there was with the original, either. There was also no pinging at all, so I dialed in a bit more advance, since I bet the advance curve is less aggressive on the single point unit than on the IBS-4011 normally used with the camshaft of a G. I can totally live with this level of performance (and lack of tachometer functionality) until I can find a place that can rebuild/repair my original unit. With that being said, does anyone know someone who rebuilds/restores distributors?I found a listing in Hemmings for a guy named Jim from Special-Interest-Autos.com who advertises all kinds of tuneup parts available for sale, and the ad also states that he does 'restorations' of distributors. His listing is under Chrysler/Mopar parts for sale, as well as under Dodge parts for sale. Apparently he is from Rockwall, TX, which is a bit over 2 hours away from my location. I've traded voice mails with Jim, but have not spoken with him 'live' yet to discuss in detail my particular distributor and his ability to find parts to refurbish it (or what the cost would be).Any other advice/recommendations of repair folk for Autolite distributors would be appreciated.Thanks,--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-int...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CAD%2B8cnurybu%3Do4KCYDHizC9qBefFe9QviW-NeawzU2LUgC3AkQ%40mail.gmail.com.
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-int...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/894A925B-023D-4E9E-ABDE-50737A4A06E0%40gmail.com.
--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-int...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/67c22ba4-893b-4300-95e5-2b374681729cn%40googlegroups.com.
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap