Re: {Chrysler 300} Why, oh Why? drivability question on Hurst
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Re: {Chrysler 300} Why, oh Why? drivability question on Hurst



Thanks,
I did once have a vacuum leak in the hose going to the PCV valve, and a small crack in the valve itself.  The hose was very stiff from age/heat and was a bit loose at the carb connection, and the PCV itself practically crumbled when I tried to take the hose off that end.  Replaced both the hose and valve and the car ran great.  That was a few years ago.
In all my experience with 361, 383, 400, 413, 392 engines, I've never felt heat like what comes off a 440 with those factory hi-po manifolds that come up top and next to the valve covers.  Coolant temp is never an issue, just under hood temps, especially with the Hurst hood pad and fiberglass hood on a factory A/C car.  Timing is set properly, so that isn't the issue, either, as far as I'm concerned.   I'll try to hunt for a possible vacuum leak, as I'd rather find one than take my carb apart again. ;-)

On Tue, Oct 8, 2024 at 1:50 PM Jean-Yves Chouinard <jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I certainly am no mechanic , but I have experienced similar symptoms before with a few Chrysler big blocks. The culprit have always been an engine vacuum leak somewhere. Could be at the base of the carburetor, at the intake manifold to head area, especially at the middle area where the exhaust cross passage is located, manifold becomes very hot there...could be a rubber hose in the engine bay...any and all of the above is a suspect for a vacuum leak. Usually, if severe enough, it makes the car idle unevenly when warm and the engine tends to go on running after it is turned off. I spray brake cleaner (from a rattle can) at the base of the carburetor and intake manifold area(not into the carb!) when engine is warm and idling, if engine RPM goes up, you have a vacuum leak...my 2 cents.
Jean-Yves Chouinard.

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of John Nowosacki <jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: October 8, 2024 5:00 PM
To: 300 Club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; list server <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Why, oh Why? drivability question on Hurst
 
Admittedly, I neglected to drive my Hurst for almost a month (at least 3 weeks anyway), as weather and scheduling of car shows and cruises in warm/hot Texas has been more conducive to early morning 'cars and coffee' type events with the top down in the cool of the morning, and the G is my favorite.
I finally drove the Hurst this past weekend, and two symptoms I never had before popped up.  Car starts normally on fast idle with cold start, and progresses down onto normal idle as always, but two things now happen that never happened before-
1.  As I approach my street coming home (car fully up to temperature and running fine down the road), I have to slow almost to a stop and take a right turn into my slightly uphill street entrance, and the car shuts off like it's out of gas.  If it doesn't stall, it stumbles quite a bit and I need to pump/feather the gas pedal to keep it running.  If/when it does stall, I pop the gear shift lever into neutral and it fires right back up and proceeds up the hill to my driveway, where I make a left hand turn into the driveway on level ground with no issues.  Then I pull into the garage, idling smoothly, and when I shut the car off it tries to run-on slightly before shutting off.  It never did either of these things before I let it sit.  Do I have a gummed up carb messing with float levels or needle/seat or jets?  Settings on the carb float levels couldn't change just from sitting, right?  Any guesses?  Don't want to remove the carb and tear it down unless that is the only recommendation.  I do have multiple carb kits with parts if I have to, or maybe I just put some gas treatment in the tank and run it for a few days and then reassess what's going on?  Any suggestions appreciated.
I have noticed now that I'm in dry, dusty, central Texas that gas bowls run dry and linkages for choke and choke pull off need lubrication with gumout spray much more so than in cooler, more humid New England.  I even had a PCV valve stick for the first time ever.  Perhaps I need to put additives in the gas and make sure I drive everything more often?
 
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