have some brand new info just yesterday on this ( not the two terminal switch but the thermal gauge issue ) It seems all the aftermarket “ new” senders are not calibrated right , both temp and gas tank . Way it is ,they sell you anything that will screw in on temp . The 57-58 ( 59?) are a completely different design and on those i gave up — aways get one from a 57-56 junkyard motor ( plym dodge etc work) And they fail a lot . But at end of day knowing ohms volts etc does not fix a gauge that reads wrong , !! — on gas gauge make SURE float goes top to bottom of tank which may require extending the arm , shaping etc so the float travel hits the end stops on sensor at EXACT same time float hits top snd bottom . Key to success. Note that correct ohms etc is useless if travel is wrong
But back to temp while trying to make gas gauge reasonable , 3 rd pull of tank before realizing travel was not enough on “ fits your car” sender . I changed to electronic VR . It apparently puts out slightly more average heat than stock pulsing so both gauges then read high , can live with that on fuel ( goes above F) i want empty region right .
Note you cant really measure pulsing net heat
But this caused temp which always ran at lower end of bar to run at high end of bar . Don't like that .
So to cut to it , i bought a 25 ohm 15 watt potentiometer put it in series with temp sender , with engine at normal dialed in gauge to left end of gauge bar (perfect ) despite the three variables one is fighting . We dont care too much why — just want it right at normal temp . Magic number is 5.5 ohms , get 2 watt resistor near that ,add in at sender = peace On Sep 19, 2024, at 10:36 PM, Kevin deGraauw <kdegraauw@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I do have the book and so I should have the OEM part number. Trying to see what crosses over in an aftermarket world. Problem is no one has one available of course, but I'll keep looking... thanks for the reference to download!
Kevin
From: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2024 8:32:41 PM
To: Kevin deGraauw <kdegraauw@xxxxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Temperature Sender
Go to
https://mymopar.com/
Download the 1965 Master Parts Book and look up the part number…
James
From:
Kevin deGraauw <kdegraauw@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2024 17:06
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Temperature Sender
Hey so along that same line, on my 300L, it has that "COLD" and "HOT" idiot light setup in lieu of a gauge.
My sender was a little crusty, so I put a new one in- now, for some reason, the "COLD" won't light up any more. I put the old one back in and it does come on.
I think I may have a situation where there were later model dummy "hot only" lights in big block taxies or something that the parts houses are crossing over to this year incorrectly.
Any idea what part number sender makes both of these lights function? The old crusty one and the replacement one both have 2 terminals and they both have the same letters on the
terminals and are arranged the same, so it plugs right up as well.
Kinda weird yes ,but I do like the green light on a cold morning.
I picked up a MOPAR NOS temperature sender for my 300K today. In a bag with a factory part label on it.
I rigged up my fluke tester as well as my calibrated kitchen thermometers and tested it. This is what I recorded:
At 64 degrees Fahrenheit, tap water temperature, I recorded 300 Ohms.
At 180 degrees Fahrenheit in a pot I recorded 36 Ohms.
It wanted to float a little on each end as the fluke is VERY sensitive. I would say no more then one or two ohms if that.
It will be a bit before I can place it in the car as the A/C compressor must come up to get it in. That a PITA this is to change, and one then has to dig out the tools to reset
the belt tension and torque all the bolts including the power steering pump as that lower bolt has to come out as well to get the A/C up in the air.
Once done, I will see where the gauge on the dash falls when cold and at running temp.
James
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