RE: {Chrysler 300} Carter carbs / storage

["'Bob Jasinski' via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I only have access to California ethanol fuel, and my G can sit for over 6 months without use.  I add 1 oz/5 gallons of gas of Marine 2 stroke oil TC-W3 at every fill-up.  Fires right up after priming carb with inline electric pump controlled by push button. Two stroke oil is inexpensive, Walmart carries it.  Try it, you'll like it.  Motor likes it too.

Bob J

-----Original Message-----
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2024 5:31 AM
To: chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Carter carbs / storage

I have become extremely frustrated with what happens to our cars in storage , often after less than a year now, probably due to ethanol as a compounding problem .

You go to drive your car , it will not run right or idle etc due to residual junk “in carb passages”  after evaporation of fuel , plus what is in tank goes bad . 
Don’t even say Stabil , it’s ethanol .

 Briggs and Stratton make some special stuff,  as they have fat in this fire. I have been using it . It is an engineered product can’t hurt is thinking but still the issue remains . With a lot of cars able to go this gets really bad . 

I wonder if anyone in club has a real answer ? “ Stabil  worked  for me “ is not a real answer , as in  moonlight worked for me . 

Someone mentioned putting two stroke oil in with gas ,— that might work especially if a strong mixture of this was drawn into carb the day you put it away and you are rigorous about it , keep records etc I was thinking modify fuel line to a well done rubber hose or special fittings so you could easily  disconnect and do this, put the filter right at carb , disconnect line hold temp bottle with a hose at bottom , up over for last few minutes ?

“Original looks “ that do not work is just not  so good .


But the big takeaway on this I found yesterday on a hot rod site , as I have a 318 78 dodge truck recently restored , idle mix screws sort of unresponsive, stalling etc etc Went looking about erratic  inoperable idle screws on Carter  ( saw that issue many times on 300 )—  it has a rebuilt carb Carter BBD 2 bl rebuilt only a few years ago and ran great before two years on non use . BBD variations were used from 50 ‘s to 80’s as the mopar 2 bbl

So on the site the  guy mentioned that the problem arises in the narrowed-  down tip of the very  narrow brass tubes that dip into fuel to feed the idle circuit . The hole  at the end is long and tubular , smaller than the smallest drill in a 100 drill numbered set . It is made I think by swaging brass tube down . I believe AFB are same design , these tubes and a cover on them are part of the main venturi cluster held in with two special screws . unfortunately you have to pull carb top to get at it. Best  done with carb off …. obviously 

Along the lines of why not try , i did this , sure enough junk in tiny tip hole from dried gas . cleaned out with stainless wire , blew out with air … It works! Idle screws out 1.75 turns like normal !’ Before 6-7 turns still not running right Awwwright! 
All these years thinking some mysterious thing happens to carbs , cured by rebuild , $ time  and hassle . Now I feel I know something new Good to know … Still learning … may help you , —- that , and use current edelbrock needles in our carbs , that cures deformed seats inside carb from too much golden screwdriver as taper is different jkg 

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