hi Ray , the earlier ones are grounded , for sure.. we don’t want to cause confusion there . Most of the ones I am talking of ( all I have ever seen ) have two wires , one up one down . That only needs a 3 pin switch . The wires are usually brown and green . it works because the two wires go to two fields , independent , only one side is on at a time . That cutstorque in half vs a usual DC motor where both fields are on , but in those (or permanent magnet) you have to reverse + and - that takes a six pin switch for each motor or a relay with 6 pins to reverse the connections between + 12 and ground . and yes , all later cars are that reversing way . I do not know how far into 60’s chrysler carried the up down type 2 field but I thought a long time . My personal experience ends in 62 , on motors , but for sure early ones are grounded between the two fields . If you power both leads it will do nothing You ground the frame then put 12 on one or other . jg On Jul 16, 2024, at 2:50 PM, Ray Jones <1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Just a heads up for the new folks. The key here is Use'em or lose'em.
The trouble I found mostly inside the switches is corroded contacts. I've fixed some with spraying Electrical cleaner into the switches and rocking them back and forth a gazillion times. It helped many times. Saved opening them up. If you do, open them on a bench with a clean towel to keep the little springs from disappearing into the floor somewhere. Easy to work on and once repaired the seem to last forever.
Note the motors are not grounded. 2 wires, + in one and - in the other and the motor goes up. reverse the current flow and the motor goes down.
These motor assemblies were used for many years and all across the range of cars. IIRC my '79 L'il Red Express had the same window motors that my "65 300 L had.
Usually, the left front is the same motor assembly as the Right rear, and the Right front is the same as the Left rear.
Lastly, to remove the motor, 2 bolts are accessible, but 1 is behind the inner door webbing. I drilled a 1" hole in the inner door webbing right over the 3rd bolt and the motor comes right out. A chunk of wood inside the door to keep the window assembly from coming down on your vintage arm. Really won't happen, but safety first.
It's been 15+ years since I did most of this work, But this is what this old mind remembers! Ray
Thanks for all the tips on testing power window switches. Everyone was very helpful! Hi , on switches in general , 57 up , an ohmmeter from central pin to each side will show continuity , that is 60% of it . But inside they often burn at contacts to the point of mechanically getting out of order or becoming intermittent . Usually the driver window position . Also the push on small loop wire connections a little flimsy , bad connections I have taken apart maybe 20 -30 of them scrounging parts from seldom used positions to fix bad front ones You can open but casting often breaks ,don’t overdo the opening bend — but you can epoxy back in . And add a new bend place , but fragile Some cases will be tossed anyway for parts So save ugly ones . Two things go wrong , there are two little steel springs — they get rusty if water hits switches . Then toggle is loose and floppy ., Intermittent too .Csn stick on Clean and oil And there is a brass flat spring in some of them in addition , —- if contacts burn it can get out of position and hang things up . Point of all this is hard to tell what you really have without opening , but if from back of car and the low ohms scale is ok , ( under 1 ohm) probably good , if floppy toggle or intermittent etc probably hurt inside . There are two styles of toggle top , but seem to fit ok , but that complicates a group of 4 Right answer is add relays but you would need two per motor , and a new power lead to each place — thought about it . Kit might be 100 -125 per window , any interest ? looked at adapting later PM motors by Bosch used in 70’s mopars , jeeps etc pinion pitch is slightly different ( of course ) mesh won’t wotk so dropped it . Can do but $ . They would need relay too as polarity reverses in those . Our motors are often on edge , scored shafts by rust inside bearing at bottom , and bottom end bearing area in general becoming a ball of rust .. Cant fix that, tried several ways . I have never seen one needing “ rewinding” problem is brush holder and bottom bearing area mechanically destroyed by water Critical to seal that plastic water thrower disc to shaft with WS cement and or use valve stem seal . Especially those that face up I drill an 060 hole now in center of back cover so if water gets in it will get out . Do not have to open it — put one drop of oil in too . not more than, if it gets in brushes it ruins it Drill chips are behind bearing area --
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Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?
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