Rock Auto has them now, new, up to $71. Not long ago these
were $30+ range, thanks Biden. Re: brake fluid, I was looking for dot 5 Lucas
Oil products and could not find. My brother runs a top fuel funny car, one of
his sponsors is Lucas Oil. They give him any of there products by the case. I
asked if he can get dot 5. He said dot 5 has a spongy pedal and only use dot 4.
He sent me 6 cans of dot 4 for my street rod project, good bro.
Parts Doc
From: Carl
Bilter
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2024 4:14 PM
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Brake master cylinders for 56-61 Chryslers -
heads up I
hesitate to write a post that sounds like whining, but I think it is a valid
heads up and a statement about the current availability/quality of master
cylinders for 56-61 300s (and other Mopars).
After much searching, and much to my delight, I found a listing on ebay
that offered a "made in USA" brand new master cylinder for the above mentioned
cars:
Turns out that the seller is Andy Bernbaum, with whom historically I have
had good experiences.
So I ordered the part, and when it arrived, much to my disappointment, the
part did not match the photo in the listing, as it does not say "made in USA" on
the boot or anywhere else on the part.
No manufacturer box or instruction sheet was included either indicating
country of origin. The part was absolutely IDENTICAL to the Chinese
made master cylinder that I had recently bouight at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $10
less! It will fit of course, but will be no better quality than the part I
already have. So I am returning the part.
The problem I'm having with the new Chinese made master cytlinders (all of
them) is that they leak from the cap! No matter how tight, or how full or
not the reservior is with fluid (I'm using DOT5 silicone), the cap/gasket will
not seal well. I do not have this issue with my older American made
masters cylinders or even the Chinese master cylinders from a few years
ago. The casting looks ok as does the gasket material. I chalk it up
to poor quality. I may try doubling up the gasket? Running out of
ideas. The cap bolt is also metric spec now (10mm hex head) - all of them
- rather than the familiar 7/16" that was used even just a few years ago.
And yes, I bench bled the master per instructions, and actually, the Raybestos
master (Chinese) says to not bench bleed or you will destroy the piston seal; so
you bleed on the car (and waste fluid).
The plug in the bottom port will tend to leak some as well, despite
using thread sealer, but that's not a new issue and some of the older American
made units will do that as well.
Other than leaking, the Chinese made masters seem to function well.
Anyone else having this issue? Solutions?
Carl B
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