FW: {Chrysler 300} Brake master cylinders for 56-61 Chryslers
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FW: {Chrysler 300} Brake master cylinders for 56-61 Chryslers



 

 

From: Henry Schleimer [mailto:henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, 3 July 2024 2:08 PM
To: 'dave mason'; 'Ron Waters'
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Brake master cylinders for 56-61 Chryslers

 

Since this is show and tell, here is mine.  Tube is from the tube that connects the front wheel cylinders on my 300C, so definitely 300 related!

 

On the subject of brake fluid, I just don’t get the DOT 5 drama.  Why does everyone think it is so hard to change brake fluid!

 

·         Our Mitsubishi of 23 years had the brake fluid changed every two years as per manufacturer’s recommendations.  Zero problems with the master cylinder or callipers.

·         I have changed the fluid in my 78 Valiant every 3 years or so for 25 years. Zero problems with the master cylinder or wheel cylinders or callipers despite low usage.  The last time I filled up I found the previous time was six months before!  I literally have to blow the cobwebs off.

·         Took our Mazda in for its 2nd year service and it includes brake fluid change.  I will continue to do this and expect to never have to touch the brakes in its lifetime apart from changing the pads. If you physically can’t or don’t want to do this, it added US$60 extra to the service at the Mazda dealer.  Big deal!

 

The only problem I have with changing the brake fluid myself is have to ask the wife to pump the brake..... enough said.

 

And by the way, I never ever had a paint damage problem.  Just put a rag around the master cylinder when bleeding and wash down the area with water when done in case there were any stray drops splashed.  It’s not like it is concentrated acid or something.

 

Note that one of my work friends (a mechanic by trade) rebuilt a HR Holden ute from ground up and decided to use DOT 5 as everything was new.  He told me he didn’t like the spongy feel to the brake pedal and wished he had used DOT 4 instead.  That was enough for me.

 

Henry

 

From: 'dave mason' via Chrysler 300 Club International [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, 3 July 2024 6:03 AM
To: Ron Waters
Cc: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Brake master cylinders for 56-61 Chryslers

 

I’ve found that a squeeze bottle like this works well too.  

 

IMG_5391

Sent from my iPhone

 

On Jul 2, 2024, at 13:59, Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:



Hey Bob –

 

Well, it’s similar. Look at how flexible the tube is. No problem getting under the brake booster.

 

Ron

 

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of Bob Jasinski
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2024 1:01 PM
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Brake master cylinders for 56-61 Chryslers

 

Ron,

 

Your MC filler sounds a lot like mine, attached.

 

Bob J

 

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Ron Waters
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 6:33 PM
To: 'Ray Melton' <rfmelton@xxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Brake master cylinders for 56-61 Chryslers

 

Ray –

 

What I have is a funnel with a (very) flexible tube attached to the bottom. When I have to refill the master after bleeding, I fill the master using this setup. Something I found at an auto parts store.

 

Ron

 

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of Ray Melton
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2024 9:29 PM
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Brake master cylinders for 56-61 Chryslers

 

Hello All -

Regarding the brake master cylinders - does anyone have a junk M/C from a 1957 300C that they have given up on and have no more use for?  I am thinking of making a remote reservoir arrangement to solve the cussed difficulty of replenishing the M/C fluid when bleeding brakes and need only the top cap from that junk M/C; I plan to weld/braze a tube to that cap and snake it out sideways under and around the booster to connect to a small plastic brake fluid reservoir.  This would be similar to a "dipstick" modification I saw somewhere in the 300Club archives.   I'll take some photos along the way and add it to the Tech Articles if it comes out as I hope.

Has anyone else done this - and how did it work out?

Ray Melton   Las Cruces, NM   1957 Chrysler 300C cvt     White/Gauguin    "Big Red"  s/n 3N572517   (575)642-3151

**********************************************************

On 7/1/2024 5:14 PM, Carl Bilter wrote:

I hesitate to write a post that sounds like whining, but I think it is a valid heads up and a statement about the current availability/quality of master cylinders for 56-61 300s (and other Mopars).  

 

After much searching, and much to my delight, I found a listing on ebay that offered a "made in USA" brand new master cylinder for the above mentioned cars: 

 

Turns out that the seller is Andy Bernbaum, with whom historically I have had good experiences.  

 

So I ordered the part, and when it arrived, much to my disappointment, the part did not match the photo in the listing, as it does not say "made in USA" on the boot or anywhere else on the part.

No manufacturer box or instruction sheet was included either indicating country of origin.   The part was absolutely IDENTICAL to the Chinese made master cylinder that I had recently bouight at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $10 less!  It will fit of course, but will be no better quality than the part I already have.  So I am returning the part.  

 

The problem I'm having with the new Chinese made master cytlinders (all of them) is that they leak from the cap!  No matter how tight, or how full or not the reservior is with fluid (I'm using DOT5 silicone), the cap/gasket will not seal well.  I do not have this issue with my older American made masters cylinders or even the Chinese master cylinders from a few years ago.  The casting looks ok as does the gasket material.  I chalk it up to poor quality.  I may try doubling up the gasket?  Running out of ideas.  The cap bolt is also metric spec now (10mm hex head) - all of them - rather than the familiar 7/16" that was used even just a few years ago.  And yes, I bench bled the master per instructions, and actually, the Raybestos master (Chinese) says to not bench bleed or you will destroy the piston seal; so you bleed on the car (and waste fluid). 

 

The plug in the bottom port will tend to leak some as well, despite using thread sealer, but that's not a new issue and some of the older American made units will do that as well. 

 

Other than leaking, the Chinese made masters seem to function well.  

 

Anyone else having this issue?  Solutions?  

 

Carl B

 

 

 

 

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Master Cylinder Funnel.jpg

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