Thanks John! The moral of the story is if you pay for a rebuilt Fuel gauge, the entire system sometimes fails you. It’s not like bringing your watch in to be fixed. Watches either show the right time of not. Fuel gauges and the system have a lot of moving parts. We live and learn. From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady Hi Mark there is thermal inertia in gauge , it gets very hot if full tank and you suddenly turn on . You are talking about the normal time to settle as temperature of bimetal comes into equilibrium with cooling rate of it — I think . on mechanical regulator you even see the steps at turn on . It makes no difference if it soon settles in right place . Right ? by the way inherently very crude cheap thing , not an accurate device . Get it right near empty , you are good . F does not really matter. I tend to keep a cheat sheet per car , some have almost nothing at empty some have 4 gallons . Fighting a dodge right now with 7 gallons at E . Not sender unless aftermarket or replacement or messed with . ( the problem with dodge ) Ohms there are defined , be sure float can move full depth of tank .. but thermal gauge itself is just crude . Never try to adjust it — they had some kind of jig— the two slots that look like adjusters interact with each other , I tried all that only made it worse . Replacement senders tend to have wrong curve adding to all this . jg
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