I don’t intend to crash the party but why use a modern gear reduction starter when it is easier, really, easier to have your starter repaired? I just had a starter for a 55 Imperial repaired for $80. Bolted back in and it works. No metal grinding, no extra-long cables, and it will sound like it should when you crank it. Remember that sticker on the air cleaners of GM cars, “Keep your GM car all GM”? I avoid doing things like this unless I have no option. Danny Plotkin From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of RICK AND DEBBIE CLAPHAM Have 2 one needs brushes Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> Is it the correct, original starter ? Maybe rebuilt that one, rather than jury-rigging an aftermarket one. Ron From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of Michael Marmorale Hello all I got the G running and driving! Finally. It is very hard to start when hot, the starter barley turns the motor over. Cranks fine cold, and I just put in a new group 27 battery. It feels like the starter is tired. Is there a high torque starter that will bolt onto the bellhousing? I’m running the cast iron torqueflite. Any recommendations? Thanks Mike -- -- -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/003a01dac8a1%24ad9b0ac0%2408d12040%24%40northeastretail.com. |
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