hi, no pickup tube , you have to change the top plate anyway ( to your old one?) that will give you the tube . As it comes it has 5 screws , in tank mount , that will not work on mopar .You have to do some drilling etc or modifying old This is not a drop in thing . but not bad either . Few hours and some thinking . Compared with terrible ones sold to us as replacements that read all crazy , — and stock one tears up the resistance wire making it junk . Never increase the force by bending the little arm , I did that long ago trying to make it work after cleaning (full of junk ) . it tore up the fine winding in a few months due to what I did J PS , maybe add the sliding depth pieces of fabricate something and use their centered operating principle by modifying old one , just underneath lid? it has a bracket of sorts on the bottom of lid holding old one Could be extended with two screws to get pivot in the middle of a 300 tank ? I used it on 50 studebaker ( they want like 200 for nos) , the 0-90 is the crucial part as almost all good ones in kits are GM . First time I ever saw 0-90 in A kit . You can make ior fix all the other stuff ( ford little brass tank ) but not the resister . Plus this principle of operation E to F is infinitely adjustable . Important to understand that .Pivot has to be in middle to get full arm swing symmetrical about middle of tank . Arm is then straight no bends .
-- Sent from my iPhone On May 16, 2024, at 9:38 PM, Charlie V <cv300g@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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