Re: {Chrysler 300} Dodge truck? big heads up for you

[ROBERT HAAG <scooter465@xxxxxxx>]

Talking about bad break
Design. I had a 2000 Chrysler Sebring blow a rear wheel cylinder 50 miles from home.
So I figure it is a dual system I still have the front
Brake system to make it home. So I start back home
Every stop pedal starts getting lower. So I nurse
It home. Ck master now no fluid in front or rear master.
The two master cylinder  resoviers are connected
Front disk is feeding rear
Drum resovier.
So what is the point of a dual system crazy.
A dual system crazy.
Bob Haag

> On May 15, 2024, at 3:19 PM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> I had a lot of trouble with my 2012 Dodge truck , 4 wd Hemi shortbed  brakes a  few years back ,one  front disc started dragging smoke and all the “on the main highway hassle “
> on the way to pick up 300 windshield 300 miles away , so counts as 300 related ( right?) . As in really bad . So found good Mopar guy in brake shop in Harrisburg Pa , I saw a ~ 2005 c300 customized outside , just closing 6 pm saturday night . I was in panic — cant drive the truck
> Great Mopar guy helped me , new calipers and pads . He stayed after closing .
> 
> Continued , 75 miles more next day after unplanned overnight , same thing same side . Sprayed with water at firehouse  started using E brake on highway . All the way back to Boston — not fun . Made it without touching brake pedal .
> Changed it again , at home , another new high end caliper , was seemingly ok . Very bothered by what is going on , ( will it happen again?)
> never really found out anything satisfying about the why . Still like that . …..
> 
> Lest you think easy —- remember ABS controls each one , gets into unbelievable (needless to me ) complexity about what ABS or master / booster might be or might not be doing . . End of day , = thoroughly screwed  up unreliable brakes — no matter the nice fairy story about advancements .
> So another Dodge truck I have 2013 250 did same thing a few months back , both sides … bought all new stuff , just put all on , ( everything on a mopar  rusts solid these days , including all brake and front end  bolts — chinese rustproofing of cheap fasteners  ) . They Save 2$ .  At least .
> 
> Having had this dance card before , went on line . Happening to all of them.  Huge hassles new brakes just burn  up .
> Lots of wrong info / opinions from guys who never touched a brake pad  .
> 
> But finally one smart guy posted a thing I did not believe at first but also the diagnostic thing he used worked.
> 
> He said sub intelligent design on a beefy clamp holding frame end of hose  rusts INSIDE the clamp squeezing the hose OD restricting flow ( hard to believe right ?) . So he said when wheel is dragging ( it does so even parked/ stopped) crack the bleeder , if it releases hose may be clogged ( it released , so , yes, caliper is fine (!!) all of them were fine (!!) . Then crack the connection to hard line after closing bleeder , step on brake — if it stays locked after,  it is hose for sure . How he found , in his opinion, the clamp did it . clamp or not, it IS the hose  
> Just try and crack that fitting …or remove that clamp —  just try . Mopar coated brake lines with plastic of some  kind ( after the  dakota dissolving brake lines fiasco) but still junk steel line is bare under the nut  , — as the coating ends just before flare nut ; said nut  has no coating either — rusts into a solid rust ball with line . HEY mopar— you have a totally STUPID design . If you somehow grab what is left of nut ( nicely pocketed) you twist off the end of the line . A new party starts .
> 
> It gets better .
> 
> That nut is some screwball metric  thread different than the rest of world metric brake nut . NAPA = big zero . Metric that they have for you is a different thread pitch .  Same  diameter .So you strip hose end … maybe .
> Now two days into this , plus 1000 $ +
> and the two days blown last time comes  into mind .  Topping 2500 in time and money now even doing it all yourself .
> 
> So we had to get new lines replace them due to them saving .04 on flare nut and clamp rust proofing — had to hand make the lines  ( of the new good copper alloy stuff) and — finally ended up having to DRILL  out the remains of tube to use mangled old nut on our new flare .
> 
> Compare all this sad story to our letter cars ,— the little 90 degree flag holding hose hard line  connection to frame  —with clip ;  the  way this was done with zero problems ever  — for 80 years.  37 Packard same way  
> And one even can imagine brass or SS nuts , but they must cost ..04 more . = Screw the customer with junk nut in a critical place …
> Irritating beyond belief . all this cost me thousdadds of dollars in motel , brake parts days  of aggravation and hassle . And 3-4 days  of my life fighting the design of an utter moron that is on every dodge truck . So if your brakes drag , now you know why .
> One guy on line had this happen and it burned his truck to the ground
> Tempted to buy a Ford next time .
> John
> 
> ps, 40 years ago I got into a crash when
> brake line burst on a 62 dodge , my driver , panic stop .
> I wrote Feds about people with less income are victimized by this , older used cars do it, and dual masters are not  the answer , stainless lines are . I have had a line burst on dual
> master , almost no braking left pedal goes to within 1/2” of floor . Yet that , they  mandated .
> A woman engineer at NHTSA or whatever it is  writes back to me “ they cost too much to
> mandate “
> next day i had our purchasing dept price 20 feet of steel line and 20 feet of SS , 8$ different .
> I sent it to her . Nothing happened .
> i bet could have saved 1000’s of lives , maybe 10000.
> I am hoping a recall of all dodge trucks . they deserve it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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