I second John on the fan clutch. Often forgotten but often found empty of its silicone fluid and whirling around like a weathervane.
Overheating is almost always one of two things and rarely is it timing. Its either air flow across the core or water flow through the core caused by a stuck T-stat, missing or leaking shroud, fan distance from shroud incorrect, bad fan clutch, and an obstructed core, in that order in my experience.
Sometimes, but I’ve never seen it, the pump impeller can rust away.
Dan
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Monday, May 6, 2024 6:39 AM
To: Steve <sbeard2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300 F Engine overheating
probably fan clutch , they go … hard to tell decisively too
have to watch “ new water pump “ as they sell you a 440 pump now. There are variations in 413 pumps i never got to the bottom of myself . But got bit once . Some early block front covers had metal flow directors inside behind pump others did not , add in AC or not , and i believe due to this plate the pumps changed in how far they reach into cavity . . if you put a 440 pump in you can end up with a space behind impeller and it pumps very poorly . I did not measure any of this at the time but someone may know . Confusing and erroneous data out there on this .
discussions with parts guys can get heated all they know is numbers , it is a 440 pump you get unless a part lookup from 1960 but even that crosses in computer to440 pump . Which might work depending on details of front cover cavity
There are articles about adapting i think it was JAG fan clutch too . , as the clutches vary in thickness . tech site has info on that .
Sometimes parts get mixed over 60 years wrong blades etc etc
personally if building new i’d look at modern aluminum 440 covers and pump , at least you kniw they go together , and pump fully evolved
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