A quick note before I get back to it on the 300K.
A brand-new NAPA front wheel cylinder. I took it apart as I always do these days and check the rubber inside. It was fine. I lubed it with some brake fluid and put it back together then built up the brake plate with it and all new hardware and shoes.
I mount it and then go to screw in the hose. It will only go half-way in. I pull it all off and tear the brakes off and I pull the cylinder. The casting ½ down the threads went to mush when I screwed the hose in. Junk casting.
Of course I had to order a replacement which will arrive today. We shall see.
I went to slip on the torsion bar boots and of course they do not fit. Too small. I need to see if they are a NAPA number or from someplace else. The clips are also smaller.
One more thing. I was hoping with new lower control arm bushings that the passenger side tie rod on the end of the “big cross rod” would show more clearance between it and the passenger torsion bar. It does not. It is still very close. The ball socket
on this part is substantially taller than stock. Since the only maker of this part is Rare Parts as far as I know this is a problem. I am noting that ANY slop on the idle arm can cause the linkage to move vertically and the tie rod socket is within a sheet
of paper of the torsion bar. I am thinking seriously of drilling out the bottom hole of the idle arm bracket and making a “cam” shaped washer that would index into the hole. Tack weld the washer to bolt or nut so that one can rotate the idle arm to increase
the clearance. The driver side has more clearance buy a good ¼ inch in any case. It could be that on some cars the idle arm mount was welded a little lower than others or it could just be an issue with the taller tie rod joints. (see my previous posts on this
subject).
What a PITA. When I am back in San Francisco next week I will dig up the part numbers and the exact sources and post it here, so the next guy or gal does not have to go down the same rabbit hole.
James