RE: {Chrysler 300} Rear end assembly - I need an English lesson.

Thanks John, This pumpkin is open not posi so no thrust pins just the thrust block. It just seems odd to have that much difference between the old and new bearings. Since the pumpkin in the same and the housing is the same it has to all be in the bearings.

My preference is to try and get the shims on each side to close to the same amount as you say to center the block.

I am just scratching my head as to the wording in the manual as in my thick head I can read that item 6 both ways…

James

From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2024 06:20
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Rear end assembly - I need an English lesson.

remember the point is to get the timken total clearance to the spec. That is pushing hard either side and pull out , measure that Don’t have the book in front of me but think it is .013 . check that

It will probably work fine if all shims on one side (the needed shim pack) but what they are trying to say is if you have ..30 of shim put half on each side . Centers thrust block . Remember the ends of axles are separated by essentially a free floating block it just shifts location to space them .

Be careful of thrust pins falling out if you have them ,( depends on axle options) if clearance gets suddenly high or cannot be adjusted out ( big change in shim pack ) you have that problem — they can stick to end of axle then drop to bottom of pumpkin as you pull axles .

I have fixed that in place after seeing an old mopar mechanic do it , he welded two thin weld rods end to end put pin on end of it ( hole in middle) then put it in with flashlight held it with another one , got it !

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 16, 2024, at 11:05 PM, 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi All,

I need a reality check. The 1964 service manual states (See below) in step number six that if the cup is sticking out more than .052, …”,that is the amount of shims to add to the right side.”. In my case the right cup was out 0.101 inch. I interpret that step six to mean to subtract 0.052 from 0.101 and therefore I need .049 inch of shims. BUT, one could read it as to need the full 0.101 of shims.

Can folks please give me a reality check on interpreting that passage please?

As it is, when I took this differential apart it had a 0.010 shim on one side and a 0.015 shim on the other. I made sure that the new bearings were fully seated onto the step on the axles. Same Timken part number. But that is a lot more shims I am using. The pumpkin is the same as are the axles. That alone has me scratching my head.

I did the right side at 0.049 and the left is at about 0.045 so I will need a lot of shims on that side as well. Scratching my head a little and wondering if I messed up the interpreted of step six.

Thanks folks, James.

************************ Service Manual Section ***********************************

(4) Push both axle shafts and bearing cups in toward the center of the housing as far as they will go. NOTE: Rotate axles to insure seating of both bearings and cups.

(5) After pushing the left axle in as far as it will go, measure the amount the right axle shaft bearing cup protrudes out of the axle housing (using feeler gauge stock).

(6) If the protrusion of the right bearing cup is less than .052 inch (Standard Differential) or .081 inch (Sure-Grip Differential), no shims are needed on the right side. If the protrusion is beyond the above specifications, that is the amount of shims to add to the right side.

(7) Install the gasket, shims and brake support plate to the right side of the axle housing. Tighten the attaching nut 30 to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(8) Push the left aide shaft and bearing cup in as far as possible while rotating the axle shaft to insure seating of the axle bearing and cup.

(9) Measure the distance the bearing cup protrudes beyond the housing face.

(10) Add .016 inch to this measurement in order to insure the proper end play.

(11) Install the gasket, shims and brake support plate. Tighten the brake plate attaching nuts 30 to 35 foot-pounds torque.

(12) Measure the total end play of both axle shafts after assembly. Preferred end play (.013 to .023 inch). If necessary to correct, change shims on the left side.

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