I can tell you one thing…
When I did my radiator last year, I also had them do the heater core. All with the dimple tubes.
The heater in the 300K puts out a LOT of heat with the 180F thermostat. When I say a lot of heat I am not kidding. Rivals the dual heaters in my 1947 Desoto.
I do agree that higher thermostat up to a point is a good thing to get rid of vapor.
James
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
On Behalf Of Henry Schleimer
Sent: Sunday, February 4, 2024 08:45
To: 'John Grady' <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Charlie V' <cv300g@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: 'chrysler 300 club' <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Re: 300G Thermostat
There must be some logic used by OEM engineers in choosing opening temp but I’m not sure what it is. I bought a thermostat for my hemi 6 and found
the temp needle went half way up the scale instead of to the bottom of the marked operating range - which I was used to. Double checked the specs and found manual cars use 195 and autos use 160. But the 318 auto uses 195 – so it shouldn’t be linked to auto
cooling. No difference if aircon fitted. Being a ‘78 car there may be emissions considerations? Anyway, replaced (again) with a correct 160 thermostat as seeing the needle half way to hot freaked me out. Suspect the temp sender is different to match the
thermostats as well otherwise the gauges would read differently between auto and manual. 65 Mustang gauge goes to the midpoint on the gauge which makes me uneasy but it never goes higher – so I live with it.
Looked at installing a PCV in the 300C with the Hot Heads kit, but there is no vacuum port on the WCFB carb/s. Didn’t want all the fumes going down
cylinder number 7 where the booster valve goes as the only vacuum port option – so I gave that idea a miss.
Henry
I used to think the same way , 160 just less stress on everything , then read that the higher temp evaporates water and contaminants a whole lot better out the vent system .
While on that, PCV is an excellent upgrade if you don’t have . Hot heads sells a kit , I think california had it oem factory . Grommet fits in hemi draft tube hole , probably other valley covers too
It adds nothing to “ max cooling capacity “to run colder thermostat as once open it is always the radiator condition setting that no matter the thermostat . .. it is open
To keep engine , oil and interior rust free ,and condensation out , higher temps work much better . Especially if PCV exchanges air . Draft tube = a lot more sludge in long run .
But 195 might lead to a constant low positive pressure in cooling system ( normal with that 195 thermostat , as water may boil locally at hot spots inside) , but condenses nearby into water again , no steam at radiator
but some pressure can show inside . Why if you fill radiators to top it will puke out a pint or more then be stable . Radiator cap psi is another big issue in this . High temp may need 12-15 psi cap .
Sounds like middle of road is best but 195 is even better for engine if all is in perfectly good shape
Heater core and especially that ranco heater valve is a good reason to not go 195 .
I don’t know about my other club members but that valve stem seal failed twice on me in past it blows a gallon of hot antifreeze all over your front rugs from behind glove box.
I don’t really need that .
To me the thing is a sad joke anyway . on some cars I have used 78 dodge truck on off valve in hose ( used in many mopars) same push wire . Drill hole for it . That puts the valve under the hood , gives you heat instantly
when you want it . Block off holes where ranco was , plate from inside .
I know “ original” and all that . Brings “ original “ problems too !
Thank you very much and I agree that I will get several different replies/opinions.
Everybody will have different opinions and I will share mine. I use 160 degree units in all my classic cars.
1. I don't drive them in the winter, so I don't need a lot of heat from the heater.
2. The lower temps are easier on all the cooling system components; radiator, heater core, hoses, and internal engine gaskets.
3. A 160 degree thermostat provides some extra cooling capacity when the car encounters periods of slow traffic or high ambient temps.
Just one person's opinion,
On Saturday, February 3, 2024 at 4:27:24 PM UTC-6 Charlie V wrote:
What's the recommended thermostat for the 300G ?
I looked in the Service Manual and the 300G Service Manual Supplement and could not find what degree mentioned.
I looked in the parts manual and they have a 160 and a 180 degree.
I looked on RockAuto and they have a 160, 180 and a 195 degree listed.
By the Parts Manual, I would think 180 is correct but I swear someone told me to use a 195.
Bye for now and Spring will soon be here. I had the G out for a ride two times today.
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