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Thanks. The other question is cost-benefit. I have the factory 727 in the car and a spare from 1964. I would have to source a rebuilt trans 1965 or later which would be a wash with rebuilding the earlier 727. Then $3500 for the GV unit. Plus costs to
do a crossmember and the drive shaft. Say $4000 to $4500 more than just rebuilding the stock unit. Back of the envelop calculations tells me that a round trip cost to coast with a 2.5 to 2.8 final drive ratio would save me about $2000 versus the stock 3.23.
So, it would take two full round trips to break even, not counting the daily usage savings… I need to decide if all the time and effort in doing it would be worth it. James From: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
It was a small cut on passenger side of tunnel about 2 O'clock, I'll look for a photo from the build. It will be hidden, only you will know. Eventually you will forget. I did.
Until you reminded me. Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message----- Hi Danny, You have a point. My question is “how much” and “where”. The problem I have seen is that once you start you can end up with a lot more issue
than one thinks. If the car did not have a console, I would be more inclined, but I do not want to have to start cutting up a console to make clearance. That is why I would like to find someone that has done it on a ’63 or ’64 floor pan so I can see how extensive or not the metal work done needs
to be. I am not against cutting, I just do not want to open up a can of worms. James From:
dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
My opinion, likely worthless. These are not Duesenberg's. If a small cut under the carpet, never seen again will have you driving and enjoying your car, well, that is a heck of
a lot more important than a homogeneous floor pan. Consider that Chrysler engineers hacked the floors on the special for the silly french transmission, didn't seem to cause less sleep, the cars are
worth a million that way. Is it different because James did it instead of Fred at Chrysler? You both will likely cut it with a similar saw. Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message----- Hi Danny, I did give that some thought; the only issue is I really hate to cut into the sheet metal. That is why the A518 idea intrigued me if it can
be done without cutting the body. I would love to find someone that did it on a ’63 or ’64 for either solution to see what it took. The idea of having a 3.5 or 3.7 rearend with a 30% reduction would be a great thing for a daily driver and cross-country mount. James From:
dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
John Grady wrote: "They apparently make a GV you can use with 4 WD late 727 short
output spline ( drops the long tail shaft ) sounds good , but details hard to find . So far . " The attached picture shows my Gear Vendors behind my 727, replaces tail shaft. It's in a 61 Plymouth, required a small clearance cut to the tunnel. The GV makes the car enjoyable on the street with 4:10's in back. Cannot say enough about it...its 16 yeas old and no problems. Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message----- Hi ,
on this , the problem is 518 is for A block motor it was never factory behind B block . adapters are available , I never did it . I did put
518 behind 450” 392 going into F ( i know i know ) “ Real 300 has a hemi , I like F” . Someone else said that .
A guy named Waters in Vermont makes stuff to put 518 behind any early A block . Bolt pattern is the same , 518 / 392 but need a spacer about
1.125 and flex plate conversion piece . Smart guy . I used his stuff Don’t have contact info handy —-TL Waters or TJ Waters I am debating this now on another F , all this started on first one trying to put Gear Vendors OD on 62 PB trans into F . 62 A block PB 727 ( 318) are common . Goal was a lot more
go off the line not gas mileage . You cannot put GV on a TF with a rear pump ( spent a year trying to work out , can’t be done, without making your own spline coupling and complicated billet adapter ) I do not know ifJ/K have rear pump ? Don V would know
. Oil lines go into rear case Trying to keep push buttons was why I wanted that 62 trans in F .. idealist etc —A or B block . Imperial Services once made external cable shift adapter for later ( ?66 up ?) TF to the early buttons , I copied that design myself from
their pictures ( they stopped selling it ) I put the same idea onto the 518 , to keep F PB ; but you have to physically pull out ALL 518 park actuator stuff , and use lighter rooster comb spring from 62 on 518 trans. Buttons cannot move the heavy park actuator
( a surprise for you ) Did all that , not in the car yet - A and A 518 is a heavy duty build , a 90’s dodge truck 518 . Electrics another story , did that , 12
v on trans plug engages OD .Have to make an OD controller ,. Performance Trans sells nice analog one for this . . Plus input spline of later 727 changed if you do go THAT way = , new converter . But generally a very good smart upgrade . Cannot get good
converters for small spline old 727 TF now . Related , 70 challenger E body 8 3/4 axle fits F , you get real E brake , did that too on another (3rd) car ( 60 matador/ 440/ 727 ) same frame as F But end of day on any letter car with brake on trans= no park no e brake , as you will lose early trans brake . So converted dana 60 axle
in F # 1 to cadillac disc caliper with E brake built in the caliper ( auugh) They are a piece of work , believe me . on and on . Advice , : you need 3:90 or more to use OD as engine rpm can be too low ( ratio is .~ . 7) , you want 3:23 -3:31 with the od in ! it will be very unhappy with J / K rams at 1200 - 1500 rpm cruise . So moving on , some painful wisdom gained —- and as now older ,= avoid pain , F number two hot rod is going to be big B block , or gen 2 hemi
so 727 with Gear Vendor or 518 ?is question ; a narrowed dana 60 4:30 in F # 2 now . So committed to OD . Now. Net of all this ,now in 2024 , = forget PButtons or non park console setup , or the park with two cables , or early 727 trans in general . use a new hurst floor shift and cable ( looks way cool, like a 4 spd in F - in ash tray hole )so you can keep P on a late
single cable ( post 66 ) 727 and then add a gear vendors , may have to beat out the floor a bit at GV unit . Supposedly fits B body ok . Or , keep hurst shifter and P but with 518? = todays question The bell is not the problem , back of 518 is way bigger a lot farther back ,— but it Fit in an F tunnel . F had cast iron biggie but I think letter car floor pans all the same . note “think “ Given need for that non stock B to 518 adapter ($$$) and then a 518 ($$$) ,and control for it ($$) —- and fact : so easy to use a later crank
/ 440 and reasonable price late torqueflight , Add readily available HP converters for big spline 727 ( AA has a reasonable price super tech later converter for cadillac adapted to 727) and you then have park , and an e brake too — say on later dana drum or
E body axle , that saving will more than pay for $$$$$$ gear vendors setup . 2k$ about . Need special drive shaft , 500 more, Dennie’s One man’s long trek though this wilderness … leaning now to late 727/ GV on F 2 , would go 518 on A block or new hemi . Brings up 415” mopar Indy small block in F ? 450 hp 200 lbs less
? handling!!! They apparently make a GV you can use with 4 WD late 727 short output spline ( drops the long tail shaft ) sounds good , but details hard
to find . So far . Then there are guys selling late GM OD trans 4L80E and adapters (..no one say new hemi , hate computers ) and it has no distributor . enough is enough . your mileage may vary widely ! At end of day , I think J/K beautifully optimized by Chrysler exactly as they come . Leave stock! I had a J modified it, ( cam , shift kit)
huge mistake . Made exactly as they came for long distance trips , don’t need OD and all this fun .Spending 8 k to save gas needs some logic applied? may
actually get worse gas mileage at way below design rpm at cruise . Cam is extremely inefficient that low . I guess 8 mpg , not a 40’s flathead . But if you want to wipe out mr BMW to 80 , see first part above . At least the aggravating bright blue headlights should be behind me , even
with his driving gloves , bra and all he gets a good look at two 3” tailpipes and fins jg Sent from my iPhone
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