To add, if it helps, the sender should read about 10 ohms full and about 75 ohms empty. Bench check with ohmmeter; if it needs to travel more or less, there is a tab (a “stop”) you can bend.
D&KSent from my iPhone On Dec 31, 2023, at 16:51, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
hi if the others read right and fuel does not make it to F when you short the lead going to tank to ground , someone has been in there and tried to calibrate it by turning the two slots on back ( factory calibration) they interact never mess with them , or it was damaged by no regulator ground which burns the little heat coil ( look and see) . The senders from Vans are not calibrated right , another part of it , but a good test of gauge is momentarily short wire to tank to ground key on , It should go to F or beyond . If it does not you need new gauge , unless needle was bent at install ? Another good test is get a 6 v “ lantern “ battery with springs on top , connect to power gauge ( inlet power wire ) put other on terminal to tank it should go beyond F this is good as it jets you check gauge on bench that it works ok I end up with a little sign in car , i have a few vans senders too , only game in town , i have 5/6 gallons when “empty “ , but does go to full ,— in a way dont care about full , care about empty ! Sent from my iPhone On Dec 31, 2023, at 2:50 PM, John Nowosacki <jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Since we're on the subject, I have a question about my 61G fuel gauge. Oil pressure and Temp gauges are fine, but full tank has always given me only a 3/4 reading on the gauge. I have a replacement sending unit, which I connected up under the car (without messing with removal of original from the tank). I think it came from Van's? When I manually manipulate the arm into the full position, I get the same 3/4 reading as I do with a full tank of gas using the original. I even ran a separate ground wire from the sending unit to the body in case the little bridging clip or steel lines were contaminated with surface rust giving me a grounding problem. Interesting that two different sending units give the same 'inaccurate' reading on the fuel gauge, while temperature and oil pressure read fine. Is there some sort of calibration of the gauge itself that could be wrong, or maybe some ground connection of that particular gauge in the instrument cluster causing this issue? I've never run out of gas since acquiring the car in 1998, because I just wait until the gauge is down on 'E', and I know I still have something like a 1/4 of a tank left. If I actually solve this issue and forget that I did so, there might be a chance I do run out after having my brain calibrated the way it is for so many years! ;-) Thanks for input. I have the temp gauge working.
I am Going to re install the other fuel gauge.
There was a wire that left the wiper switch.
Once I stalled the temp worked but not fuel.
I have no tester in house. On Sat, Dec 30, 2023 at 6:22 PM, 'dave mason' via Chrysler 300 Club International Clean grounds as John says; also re-seat the 5-pin connector that feeds the circuit card on that side. Sometimes a loose connection there can prevent either input voltage or gauge continuity. You can ground the wire at the temp sender and see if the temp gauge starts going up. Same for fuel- ground the wire at the sender and watch fuel gauge. Keep in mind that, since you replaced the fuel gauge, you have also replaced your limiter. The voltage limiter feeding the fuel and temp gauges their 5V is inside the fuel gauge housing.
You can check for +12V at the appropriate wire in the harness that terminates at the 5-pin connector. I don’t recall the wire color but it should be at the circled pin here:
As you face the dash while sitting in the driver seat it’s the second one from the right; if you look at the back of the instrument cluster it’s the second from the left. Make sure you have 12V here.
D&K
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