Re: {Chrysler 300} Lift advice

To tack on to Marshalls comment about floor strength, I’ve been meaning to throw in the following about moving a lift with a car on it.

If you have a lift on casters with a car on it (I.e. John Grady’s point of having an inop car), all the weight which would otherwise be spread out over a larger surface area of footprint from the posts is now on the very much reduced surface area of only where the caster wheels contact the floor. This is a lot of force on a small area. It’s spread out over the multiple wheels but the weight on each wheel is pushing down on small “line” where the curved wheels contact the floor. So is 4” of concrete enough? Not sure what the magic number is but something to consider.

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On Dec 2, 2023, at 17:35, Nick Taylor <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Here is an album on my workshop. If you go to the bottom you'll see the slab work. I have them make it thicker in the area where the two-post lift was going. About 6 inches thick there. I'd have to look up in my records for the strength. I had the floor epoxied and haven't had any cracks. I've had problems with the outside concrete, including having to have a big section replaced.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3zu8HEggi73nNceU6

On Sat, Dec 2, 2023, 1:36 PM Keith Boonstra <kboonstra.zeegroup@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I put in my new concrete floor and 2-post lift 2 years ago after much research concerning the concrete. My lift brand called for 5.5" of reinforced concrete with 4000# test compression.

What I found out in several conversations with flatwork companies, and also through independent online queries, is that today's recommendations regarding reinforcement and thickness have changed considerably from the old days. First, a number of years ago they came out with microfiber reinforcement. The recommendation then was to put a certain amount of microfiber, leave out the wire mesh, but still use rebar. Then a few years ago they came out with macrofiber reinforcement, and it was a real game changer. Testing showed that macrofiber inclusion in the concrete mix eliminated the need in most cases for either wire mesh or rebar.

The problem with wire mesh had been that even though it is intended to be held up in the pour on "chairs", the truth is that a lot of it would get mashed down to the bottom by the guys laying the pour instead of ending up in the upper third of the thickness where it might do some good. Rebar also has the problem of rusting and busting up the concrete over time if it's used in wet locations. With macrofiber those problems are history as the reinforcement is consistent throughout the mix from bottom to top.

Testing has also shown that macrofiber reinforced concrete can even be laid thinner than wire-mesh and rebarred concrete and yet achieve equal performance characteristics. My recollection is that the thickness reduction can be about 20%.

The bottom line is we put down 7500 square feet at 5" thickness using only macrofiber reinforcement right in the mix. We also cut control slots. This was two years ago and I have yet to see even a single hairline crack anywhere. It troweled out to a fairly slick surface and we hit it with a coat of densifier too to eliminate dusting of the surface.

This new development is fantastic and the flatwork companies are all using it.

Keith Boonstra

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On Wed, Nov 29, 2023 at 11:19 AM Marshall Larson <granitledge@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Not just 4 inches but should be 4 inches of 4000 pound concrete. Rebar is also a good idea. My two post sits on a 10' X 10' X 14" pad of 4000 lb concrete with 30" grid of .5 inch rebar. Not taking any chances!

On Wed, Nov 29, 2023 at 10:06 AM <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Good point!

4 post lifts need minimum 4" slab no anchors, 2 posts usually need more and must be anchored.

Danny Plotkin

-----Original Message-----
From: "Marshall Larson" <granitledge@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2023 11:02am
To: mguarneri@xxxxxxx
Cc: scotttaylorsc@xxxxxxxxx, chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Lift advice

In all the discussion on this topic, no one has mentioned anything about the floor you put your lift on. Make certain you have sufficient floor strength to handle the weight.

On Wed, Nov 29, 2023 at 9:02 AM mguarneri via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Scott, I picked up an Atlas lift about 5 years ago (see attached model manual). I picked this one because it is oversize and would accommodate my two Chrysler's. It is not bolted down and I have never used the post lifts to move it around. In the attached picture I have my G conv on top with my '56 Windsor below.

I have worked on both cars on this lift plus I have a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 and had no problems size wise with the lift (I opted for the 110v motor).

Hope this helps in your decision.

John

In a message dated 11/28/2023 6:44:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, scotttaylorsc@xxxxxxxxx writes:

For those of you with four post lifts that are not bolted down, how hard are they to move around? Can one person do it?

We have a new three car garage at the house and I’m considering a couple of four post ones for storage… most likely with Chryslers on the ground and something lighter up top.

I want something with an electric lift, would prefer no air but have air available if needed. Thinking about two, four post models but I’d like to not bolt them down if possible.

Scott

On Mon, Nov 27, 2023 at 8:31 PM Tom Wilburn <tomwilburn1@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I want to purchase a lift, and would appreciate advice.

While my preference would be an asymmetric chassis lift for maximum accessibility, I also want to use the lift for car storage.

So, I think that means a “drive on lift”, with accessories to allow wheel removal etc.

Any recommendations?

I have no restrictions as this will be new construction.

Tom

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