Thanks for the thoughts, guys.
I have my own brake shoe arc machine.
The issue is daily driving and mountain driving. Not to mention idiots on the freeway that cut you off with antilock brakes.
As to re-lining, I guess I did not make it clear, but if I stay with drums than I need as spare set for the front. Since almost all of them are past 40 thou one would have to send a set out for brake drum relining which is very expensive.
I would keep all the old stuff labeled in a box for the car.
I was wondering how people liked the various kit options. Looks like that people have used AAJ but not any of the others.
James
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2023 10:02
To: ridgleyracing65 <ridgleyracing65@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Re: Disc or not to Disc that is the question!
exactly true , Dyke
A technical inability by person doing it to get total contact brakes ( especially) to operate correctly is not a reason to bring a pile of new problems in . Matching disc with rear drum is flat out problematic unless factory design .
I could not get total contact fronts to work right in my early 300 days frustrating as all get out .
When done competently ( a rare thing) they are terrific brakes . Complaints in the press of the day centered on repetitive panic stops from 100 mph in a heavy Chrysler — not as good as GM / Buick . Mopar drum overheats , fades
Buick had 3” drums with aluminum fins . But who does three 100 to zero panic stops ? with no cooling time
Had no problems in nascar either .
Conversions have a place .
But find a competent guy on stock first , leave ok but partially worn old shoes in old unturned drums . All new parts will grab and pull . Shoes typically only touch in one place , leading to
low brake effectiveness and rapid initial pedal drop —- unless shoes matched carefully to drum diameter by shoe grinder machine . try and find one — and a guy who knows how to measure etc
Lots on all this in past discussions too
Just a comment, not trying to influence anybody. Our 300F was restored with a front disc brake conversion, but using the original master cylinder. Our 300C still has all original drum brakes. Both cars have correctly adjusted drums. In
regular road driving, the 300C definitely stops better. It requires less pedal effort and has more retardation for the same pedal pressures. Personally, I wish the restorer had left the 300F drums alone. Just my opinion.
On Sunday, October 22, 2023 at 11:14:22 AM UTC-5 James Douglas wrote:
Although I am working on several other systems on the car, I need to make a decision on the brakes.
My front drums are about 15 thousand oversize, so I can get several more cuts out of them. I have yet to pull the rears, but new rears can be purchased.
I will be rebuilding the brakes complete. By the time I get new, stainless sleeved wheel cylinders and all new hardware I will be getting up there in price. {Note: if I stick with
drums than I will have to get two cores for the front and send them out to be re-lined which will cost about $1500.}
The cost to change to disc would be in the end the same or less.
Now this car is for driving daily and will see cross country trips. Mountain driving. Highway Driving.
I know that some folks have used the AAJ kits. Has anyone used the SSBC or Leeds Kits? Or, has anyone used the expensive Magnum Force Kit (MFR161100)?
Mulling it over.
Also, if anyone has a set of the 11x3 REAR backing plates they want to sell, please let me know. I want to convert the rear to 11x3 from 11x2.5 inch shoes.
Thanks, James
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