| First off, the mopar motor is very special as it has two field windings , it is “ series “ DC motor where power goes into one field or other then into brush then out of other brush to frame of motor ( ground) . the two fields are wound opposite directions so magnetism of field reverses , ( armature does not , current direction is the same through brushes ) . This avoids a reversing relay required with permanent magnet motors and many competitive wound field two or three wire motors , or else 3 wire motor with one or the other component ( F or A ) able to be reversed vis its two leads , = a relay , same as permanent magnet type . So looking the same may not matter if different inside but one can add the relay .
A bad thing about no relay etc in the mopar design is only one field is 0n so = half the torque possible with both , = larger motor , but worse of all a heavy current must be switched at each location beating up the switch , a problem we know well and also lots of heavy 14 and 12 ga wires at every switch , plug connectors at switch gotta be perfect , stiff harness , wires break at doors .
Ok , so same thinking as you , I coincidentally worked on 02 Jeep pw motor ( cable drive windlass type ) made originally by Bosch. Amazingly small permanent magnet really powerful . I used it to after pull from Jeep ( 200 k miles) cable ends are plastic ( junk design) always break off . I made an electric wiper drive myself on packard from it came out great , but had to slow down with 5 V power Got rid of windlass etc changed to crank .
Now in this approach you get a new motor of modern design AND a new gearbox all in one , 1/3 the size of ours . This led to more looking — for one with a pinion drive like ours and I found one , i think used in 70’s Cordoba etc . Only ~ 22$ brand new , Dorman . requires relay , that is easily worked out , did it already , a small relay added at each motor . But the problem : Unbelievably the pinion pitch is different maybe metric ? don’t know . So this becomes from my view a mechanical problem . Recut sector ? press some kind of pinion adapter and move all of it back with spacer maybe 3/4” . Spacer could be bolt pattern adapter too . I get into all this as it sadly turned into atomic mechanical project due to pinion , but otherwise terrific answer to all PW problems gear box included , if it fits . Same form factor as old one , but much much smaller , says it ought to go . I shelved all this . Comments welcome , I can do electrical side , for sure , By the way 1/2 the current , PM motor runs at constant speed too , like a shunt motor . No more speed changes to speak of with load , which problem is inherent to series motor mopar used . Suggestion how to ? make new pinion on round of steel rod , blank , bore or drill a hole in back , fits tight over Dorman pinion , put 3 6/32 allen set screws aligned to hit between teeth . Cannot take apart gearbox , looked at that a mess to do . factory sealed . Just throwing this out there ., John
Sent from my iPhone On Oct 21, 2023, at 12:41 AM, 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi all,
The passenger power window in the 300K is shot. The gear box was also cut across the bottom and a half assed bracket was made to connect the motor to it.
I was thinking…
Mac’s has new, pricy, motors that look just like these. The only difference is they have a ground wire.
I am thinking that the answer to dealing with the design flaw of these heavy motors cracking the mounting boss is to take it off the mechanism. Just cut away the bad ends, like on the one I have, and make a bracket for the motor to completely
attach to the door inner webbing. Then use a…
https://www.mcmaster.com/3135K15/
… flexible coupling from the motor to the mechanism (gear box). In this way the weight of the door closing is not allowing the motor to torque on the mechanism. I know that it is a recommended thing to strap the motor at the bottom to the
webbing. But why not just “de-couple” it completely from the diecast mechanism?
By the time I hunt down a new motor and a good mechanism, I could make a bracket for the motor and buy the cable in the link.
Thoughts? James
--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CY5PR19MB61716E8ABBB1D073531B465293DAA%40CY5PR19MB6171.namprd19.prod.outlook.com.
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/2BFED926-6462-424F-92E0-F78525EAC399%40gradyresearch.com.
|
